Plumeria, also known as Frangipani, is a tropical plant valued for its fragrant and vibrant flowers. These small trees and shrubs feature leathery leaves and distinctive branching patterns, making them desirable ornamental specimens in warm climates. Plumeria can be successfully grown in containers far outside their native range, provided their specific needs are met. This guide outlines techniques for establishing, maintaining, propagating, and protecting these flowering plants.
Establishing the Plant
Plumeria requires intense light exposure to thrive and bloom. The plant needs a minimum of six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily; more sun generally results in better flowering. Outside of USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11, Plumeria must be cultivated in containers so they can be moved indoors for protection during cool winters.
Providing a porous and well-draining soil mix is essential. Plumeria roots are highly susceptible to rot if left in soggy conditions. A suitable blend combines standard potting soil with inorganic material like perlite, pumice, or coarse sand (about one-third additive to two-thirds soil), or a specialized cactus mix can be used. Choose a heavy pot made of terracotta or ceramic to prevent the top-heavy plant from tipping over, ensuring it has ample drainage holes.
Routine Care and Feeding
Correct watering is the most important aspect of Plumeria maintenance, as overwatering is the leading cause of plant failure. During the active growing season (spring through early fall), use the “soak and dry” method: thoroughly saturate the soil, then allow it to dry almost completely before watering again. Watering frequency decreases significantly as temperatures drop and the plant prepares for dormancy.
Plumeria benefits from regular feeding during active growth to support heavy blooming. To encourage flowers over excessive leafy growth, select a fertilizer with a high middle number (Phosphorus). Formulas such as 10-30-10 or 5-30-5 are recommended to stimulate bud and flower production. Fertilization should begin in the spring and cease by late summer or early fall to prepare the plant for winter rest.
Pruning is performed to shape the plant or remove dead or diseased wood. Light pruning can be done anytime, but heavier cuts should be made judiciously. Since the plant produces flowers at the tips of new growth, removing too many branch tips reduces blooming potential. Major shaping is best done in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Propagation and Increasing Stock
The most common method for increasing Plumeria is through stem cuttings. A healthy cutting, ideally 12 to 18 inches long, should be taken from a slightly hardened or woody branch tip. After making a clean cut, the cutting must be allowed to dry in a warm, shaded, well-ventilated area.
This drying process, known as callousing, forms a protective seal on the cut end, preventing rot. Callousing typically takes one to two weeks, depending on temperature and humidity. The cutting is ready for planting when the cut surface is dry and firm.
Plant the calloused cutting in a sterile, well-draining medium like perlite, sand, or a porous cactus mix, burying it three to four inches deep. During the initial rooting phase (which can take several weeks), water must be withheld to prevent the cutting from rotting before roots form. Growing Plumeria from seed is possible, but this method is slower, and the resulting plant will not reliably possess the characteristics of the parent.
Protecting Against Pests and Cold
Plumeria can be susceptible to common garden pests, including spider mites, scale, and whiteflies, especially when grown indoors. Spider mites are indicated by fine webbing and stippling on the leaves, while scale insects appear as small, hard bumps on the stems. A strong stream of water can dislodge whiteflies, but persistent infestations of mites and scale require treatment with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Winter Dormancy
For growers in cooler climates, preparing the plant for winter dormancy is essential. Plumeria is not frost-tolerant and will suffer damage below 40°F; growth slows significantly below 50°F. As late autumn approaches and nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50°F, container-grown plants should be brought indoors.
The plant naturally drops its leaves as days shorten and temperatures cool, signaling that watering and feeding should stop. The dormant plant should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a garage or basement, where temperatures remain between 40°F and 55°F. The plant needs no water during this storage period, as wet, cold roots lead directly to lethal root rot.