The Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ is a captivating houseplant, celebrated for its unique, distinctive foliage. Its striking texture and shape make it a popular addition to any indoor plant collection.
Meet the Philodendron Crocodile
The Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ (Philodendron mayoi) stands out with deeply lobed, serrated leaves. Their textured, leathery surface distinctly resembles crocodile skin, giving the plant its common name. Foliage often displays vibrant golden-yellow hues combined with green, with new leaves sometimes emerging bronze before maturing.
This plant exhibits a vining or climbing growth habit, growing as a vine with proper support like a moss pole. While young, it serves as an attractive tabletop plant. As it matures, it can develop into a substantial floor plant, with leaves potentially reaching two feet long.
Essential Care for Your Philodendron Crocodile
Light
The Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ thrives in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window or a few feet from a south or west-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight can scorch its foliage, causing brown patches or fading. Insufficient light leads to leggy growth and less vibrant leaves.
Watering
Water the Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry. Philodendrons prefer consistent moisture but are sensitive to waterlogged soil, which causes root rot. Ensure thorough drainage, allowing excess water to flow out. It is better to allow the soil to dry slightly than to overwater.
Soil Requirements
The Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ prefers a well-draining, airy potting mix rich in organic matter. A suitable mix includes peat moss or coconut coir for moisture retention, combined with perlite or orchid bark for aeration and drainage. This prevents dense soil and ensures proper root air circulation. The ideal pH range is 5.0 to 6.0, indicating a slightly acidic preference.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, the Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ flourishes in warm, humid environments. Optimal daytime temperatures range between 65 and 80°F (18-27°C), with slightly lower temperatures at night. The plant benefits from high humidity, ideally above 50-60%. Increase humidity by misting leaves, using a pebble tray, or placing a humidifier nearby.
Fertilizing
Regular fertilization supports healthy growth and maintains vibrant leaves. During spring and summer, feed your plant every two to four weeks with a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. A 10-10-10 formula or an organic option like fish emulsion is recommended. Reduce feeding in fall and winter when growth slows. Over-fertilizing can cause nutrient burn, seen as brown leaf tips, so adhere to dilution instructions.
Growing and Expanding Your Collection
Repotting Your Plant
Repotting the Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ is necessary when it becomes root-bound, indicated by roots growing from drainage holes or slowed growth. This typically occurs every one to two years, or when soil nutrients are depleted. Select a new pot one to two inches larger in diameter to allow for root expansion.
To repot, gently loosen soil around the old pot’s edges and carefully remove the plant. Inspect roots for soft or diseased sections. Place fresh, well-draining potting mix at the new pot’s bottom. Position the plant at its previous depth, then fill around the root ball, gently firming the soil to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly after repotting to settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Propagation Techniques
Propagating the Philodendron ‘Crocodile’ is achieved through stem cuttings. In spring, select a healthy stem section about six inches long with at least one or two nodes. Nodes are small bumps where roots and leaves emerge. Remove leaves from the bottom portion, ensuring at least one node remains exposed.
Place the cutting in water, submerging the node while keeping leaves above the waterline, or plant it directly into a moist, well-draining rooting medium. Place the cutting in bright, indirect light, changing water every few days if using that method. Roots typically form from nodes within two to four weeks. Once roots are a few inches long, transfer the cutting to a pot with appropriate soil.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Yellowing leaves are a frequent concern, often indicating overwatering, poor drainage, or root rot. Conversely, yellowing, especially of older leaves, can signal underwatering or too much direct sunlight. Adjusting watering frequency and light exposure can resolve these issues.
Brown tips or crispy edges on leaves point to low humidity or underwatering. Increasing ambient humidity through misting, pebble trays, or humidifiers can help. Pests like spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and thrips can also affect the plant, causing yellowing or distortion as they feed. Regular inspection and prompt treatment with insecticidal soap or neem oil manage infestations.
Slow or stunted growth, or leggy growth with increased space between leaves, suggests insufficient light or lack of nutrients. Relocate the plant to a brighter spot with indirect light and ensure consistent fertilization during the growing season for healthier development.