The Philodendron bicolor is a striking tropical aroid native to the rainforests of South America. Its aesthetic appeal comes from its distinctive two-toned, or bicolor, foliage, which is reflected in its scientific name. The leaves are typically long, glossy, and lance-shaped, featuring a rich, dark green color on the upper surface. This deep hue contrasts sharply with the underside, which often displays a lighter green, reddish-pink, or even copper coloration. As a climbing species, the plant naturally uses aerial roots to ascend trees in its native habitat, offering a bold and structured touch to any indoor collection.
Ideal Placement and Environmental Needs
For robust growth and the deepest leaf coloration, the Philodendron bicolor requires placement in an area that receives bright, indirect light. This simulates the dappled light it would receive beneath the jungle canopy, promoting healthy photosynthesis without the stress of intense sun exposure. Placing the plant in harsh, direct sunlight must be avoided, as the strong rays can easily scorch the delicate leaf tissue, leaving behind brown burn marks. Conversely, while the plant can tolerate lower light, insufficient light will lead to stretched, weak stems and smaller leaves, a condition known as etiolation.
Maintaining a consistently warm environment is equally important for this tropical species. It thrives in average indoor temperatures, ideally ranging between 65°F and 86°F (18°C–30°C). Exposure to temperatures below 50°F (10°C) can cause damage and should be prevented, so the plant should be kept away from cold drafts or air conditioning units. The Philodendron bicolor benefits from medium to high humidity levels, ideally above 60%. To manage humidity, you can group plants together to create a microclimate, place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, or use a dedicated room humidifier.
Soil Composition and Watering Schedule
The substrate must be airy and fast-draining to prevent root issues. A dense, compacted soil mix retains too much moisture, creating an anaerobic environment that quickly leads to root rot, the most common cause of houseplant failure. An ideal substrate is a chunky blend that provides structure while allowing for rapid water flow and aeration.
A custom aroid mix can be created by combining components like orchid bark, perlite, and coco coir or peat-free compost in roughly equal parts. This composition mimics the porous, organic matter the plant’s roots naturally encounter in its jungle environment. When watering, soak the substrate thoroughly until excess water flows freely from the drainage holes. Allow the top one to two inches of the potting mix to dry out completely before you water again. During the winter months, when the plant’s growth naturally slows down, the frequency of watering should be reduced.
Feeding and Pruning Practices
During the active growing season, Philodendron bicolor benefits from regular nutrient delivery. A balanced liquid fertilizer should be used to provide the necessary macro- and micronutrients. To prevent chemical burn or salt buildup in the soil, dilute the liquid fertilizer to half or quarter strength. This allows for a regimen of frequent, light feeding, typically applied every four to six weeks.
As the plant enters its dormant period in the fall and winter, fertilizer applications should be stopped entirely. Routine pruning serves two main purposes: structural maintenance and plant health. Any yellowing, damaged, or dead leaves should be removed promptly to redirect the plant’s energy toward new growth. When shaping the plant or trimming back leggy growth, use clean, sharp shears to make precise cuts just above a node, which will encourage branching and a bushier appearance.
Creating New Plants Through Propagation
Creating new plants from Philodendron bicolor is most effectively accomplished using stem cuttings. To begin, select a healthy stem section that is about four to six inches long and includes at least one node. This node is the point from which new roots will develop. After making a clean cut, remove any leaves that would be submerged, as they will rot in the rooting medium.
The cutting can then be placed into a jar of water, moist sphagnum moss, or a light, well-draining soil mix. If using water, change it every few days to maintain oxygen levels and prevent bacterial growth. Regardless of the chosen medium, the cutting requires a warm location with high ambient humidity and bright, indirect light to stimulate root growth. Once the newly formed roots are about one to two inches long, the cutting is ready to be transplanted into a permanent pot with a standard aroid soil mix.