The ‘Peace’ rose (Rosa ‘Mme A. Meilland’) is a celebrated Hybrid Tea cultivar developed by French horticulturist Francis Meilland between 1935 and 1939. Introduced in 1945, its name coincided with the end of World War II. The large, high-centered blooms feature a captivating color blend: golden primrose-yellow petals flushed with soft, crimson-pink edges. This classic variety is known for its sweet, fruity fragrance, making the climbing sport popular for vertical garden displays.
Establishing Your Peace Climbing Rose
Successfully establishing a ‘Peace’ climbing rose requires a site that receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily for robust growth and abundant flowering. The soil must be well-draining, rich, and loamy, preferring a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Prepare the soil before planting by tilling it 12 to 18 inches deep. Incorporate a generous amount of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve structure and fertility.
When planting a bare-root rose, dig a hole wide enough for the spread-out roots and deep enough so the bud union sits just above the soil line. If planting against a structure, position the rose at least one foot away from the base to ensure good air circulation and prevent sheltering from rainfall. Immediately install permanent structural support, such as a sturdy trellis or arbor, and gently tie the main canes to begin vertical training. Water the newly planted rose deeply to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets.
Essential Ongoing Care
During the growing and blooming season, the ‘Peace’ climber requires approximately two inches of water each week. Apply water slowly and deeply at the base of the plant using a soaker hose to thoroughly saturate the root zone. Keeping the foliage dry helps prevent fungal diseases. Check soil moisture by inserting a finger about an inch deep, watering only when the top layer feels dry to the touch.
Roses are heavy feeders and require consistent fertilization to support their continuous bloom cycle. Begin with a spring application of a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer formulated for roses as new growth appears. Apply a second feeding around mid-summer to maintain vigor and flower production. Stop all fertilization by mid-August to signal the plant to slow its growth and prepare for winter dormancy.
In colder climates, winterizing is necessary to protect the graft union and main canes from extreme temperatures. After the first hard frost, stop deadheading and allow rose hips to form, which encourages dormancy. Mound a loose, well-draining material, such as soil, compost, or shredded leaves, 8 to 12 inches high around the base to insulate the crown. Taller canes can be loosely tied together to prevent wind damage. In very harsh zones, canes may need to be carefully laid down and covered with mulch.
Training and Pruning Techniques
Managing a climbing rose involves two distinct processes: training and pruning, both focused on maximizing flowering side shoots. Training involves manipulating flexible, young canes by securing them as close to horizontal as possible against the support structure. This horizontal positioning interrupts growth hormones, forcing the rose to produce numerous vertical flowering shoots, known as laterals, along the cane’s length rather than just at the tips.
Pruning is the practice of selectively cutting back wood to maintain the plant’s health and framework. Primary pruning is performed in late winter or very early spring while the rose is dormant. First, remove any dead, diseased, or spindly growth. The main structural canes that form the permanent framework should generally be left intact. For renewal, one or two oldest, woody canes can be cut back to the base every few years.
The flowering laterals from the previous season require annual trimming to stimulate new blooms. Cut these side shoots back severely, leaving only two to five outward-facing buds on each one. This technique concentrates the plant’s energy into producing strong flowering growth from the remaining buds. Regularly removing spent blooms throughout the season, known as deadheading, redirects energy toward producing new flowers instead of setting seed.
Managing Pests and Diseases
Maintaining good air circulation is a primary preventative measure against common fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew. Black spot appears as circular black marks on leaves, causing yellowing and premature defoliation. Powdery mildew is a white, dusty growth on young leaves and stems. To minimize risk, water the plant at the base and avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, as wet foliage encourages fungal spores to germinate.
Common insect pests include aphids and spider mites, which feed on the plant’s sap and can quickly multiply, weakening the rose. Aphids cluster on new growth and buds and can often be dislodged with a strong jet of water. For severe infestations, apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, such as neem oil, directly onto the pests. These organic treatments are effective against soft-bodied insects and must be applied thoroughly, coating the undersides of the leaves where pests often hide.