The ‘Orange and Snow’ dahlia, with its striking two-toned blooms, offers a captivating display in garden beds and floral arrangements. This variety brings unique visual appeal, making it a favored choice for adding dramatic flair and continuous color to outdoor spaces. Its distinct appearance ensures it stands out.
Unique Characteristics of ‘Orange and Snow’
The ‘Orange and Snow’ dahlia, also known as ‘Apelsini Sniega’, features a captivating blend of colors that transitions across its petals. Its informal decorative blooms showcase soft orange at the base, gradually tipping into a crisp white at the petal edges. The degree of this color gradient can vary, influenced by factors such as weather and day length, adding a dynamic element to its appearance throughout the season.
These blooms typically measure between 4 to 8 inches in diameter, placing them in the “small-flowered decorative” to “B-sized” categories. The plant generally reaches a height of 3 to 4.5 feet, making it a prominent feature in the garden. Its strong stems support the blooms, even in breezy conditions, contributing to its appeal as a garden specimen and a cut flower.
Cultivating ‘Orange and Snow’ Dahlias
Successful cultivation of ‘Orange and Snow’ dahlias requires a site with ample sunlight. They thrive in full sun, requiring at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, ideally including morning sun to help dry foliage. Protection from strong winds is beneficial to prevent damage to their tall stems and large blooms.
Well-draining soil rich in organic matter is crucial for dahlia growth, as they do not tolerate soggy conditions that can lead to tuber rot. Amending the soil with compost, aged manure, or peat moss improves drainage and aeration, creating an ideal environment for tuber development. Dahlias prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, typically ranging between 6.0 and 7.5.
Plant tubers approximately 4 to 6 inches deep with the “eye” or growth point facing upwards. Space tubers 12 to 24 inches apart to ensure good air circulation as the plants mature. After planting, initial watering should be minimal; water once, then wait until sprouts emerge from the soil before watering again to prevent rot. As the plants grow tall, staking is recommended to keep the stems upright and prevent bending or breaking.
Ongoing Care for Vibrant Blooms
Consistent moisture is important for ‘Orange and Snow’ dahlias once established, typically requiring deep watering one to two times per week during dry periods. Allowing the topsoil to dry slightly between waterings is beneficial, as overly wet conditions can lead to root issues. Adjusting watering frequency based on rainfall and soil moisture helps maintain optimal growing conditions.
Regular fertilization supports robust growth and continuous flowering throughout the season. A low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 or one formulated for flowering plants, applied every three to four weeks, encourages bloom production rather than excessive foliage. Organic options like fish emulsion or compost tea can be used, applied monthly or every 6-8 weeks for granular forms. Overfeeding nitrogen can result in lush green plants with fewer flowers.
Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers, encourages the plant to produce more blooms by redirecting its energy away from seed production. Trimming faded blooms just above a leaf node promotes new growth and extends the flowering period.
Monitoring for common pests like aphids, slugs, spider mites, and earwigs is advisable. Aphids can be managed with neem oil or insecticidal soap, while slugs and snails may be deterred by copper barriers or diatomaceous earth. Regularly hosing off plants can help dislodge spider mites, which thrive in dry conditions.
Overwintering Dahlia Tubers
In regions experiencing cold winters (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Orange and Snow’ dahlia tubers are not frost-hardy and must be lifted from the ground to survive. This process typically begins after the first hard frost has blackened the foliage, signaling the plant’s dormancy. Allowing the tubers to remain in the ground for one to two weeks after this frost helps to toughen their skin, which aids in storage.
Carefully dig up the tubers, beginning about a foot away from the stem to avoid damage, using a pitchfork to loosen the soil. After lifting, gently brush off excess soil from the clumps. Some gardeners prefer to wash the tubers, especially if the soil is heavy clay, before allowing them to air dry for a day or two in a cool, protected area away from direct sunlight. This curing period helps the skin to heal and reduces the risk of rot during storage.
Store the cleaned and cured tubers in a cool, dark, and frost-free location where temperatures remain consistently between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (4-10 degrees Celsius). Maintaining a relatively high humidity, around 70-85%, is important to prevent the tubers from shriveling. Good storage mediums include peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings, which help absorb moisture and provide insulation. Placing tubers in ventilated containers, such as plastic storage tubs with holes or cardboard boxes, promotes air circulation and prevents moisture buildup. Periodically inspecting the tubers throughout winter for any signs of rot or shriveling allows for prompt removal of affected tubers, preventing spread to healthy ones.