The Nenekazi Dahlia is a captivating addition to any garden, celebrated for its striking beauty and unique appeal. This popular variety introduces vibrant color and dramatic form into floral displays. Its prolific blooming habit makes it a favored choice for continuous summer interest, providing an abundance of flowers suitable for cutting and enjoying indoors.
Distinctive Features of Nenekazi Dahlia
The Nenekazi Dahlia stands out with its unique aesthetic qualities. Its bloom form is laciniated, often called a “deer antler dahlia,” due to the fringed or split ends of its petals. The color palette typically features pale yellow at the petal base, transitioning to shades of pink or magenta-purple at the laciniated tips.
Individual blooms generally range from 6 to 8 inches across, though some sources indicate sizes between 4 to 5 inches, suggesting variability. The plant grows 3 to 4.5 feet tall, with strong, upright stems that support its large, upward-facing blooms. This upright habit ensures the flowers are prominently displayed, making Nenekazi a compelling choice for garden beds and cut flower arrangements.
Planting Nenekazi Dahlia Tubers
Successful cultivation of Nenekazi Dahlia begins with proper tuber planting. Select a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, as dahlias are sun-loving plants. The soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter. Amending heavy clay soils with compost, aged manure, or peat moss improves drainage and aeration, which prevents tuber rot.
Plant Nenekazi Dahlia tubers in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil temperature consistently reaches around 60°F (15°C). Dig a hole approximately 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the tuber horizontally with the “eye” or growth point facing upwards, then cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil. For larger varieties, planting deeper, around 6 inches, can promote stronger root growth.
Space individual tubers 18 to 24 inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation and growth. Avoid watering immediately after planting unless the soil is exceptionally dry, as excess moisture can cause the tuber to rot. Initial watering should be done sparingly to settle the soil, then resumed once sprouts emerge.
Nenekazi Dahlia Ongoing Care
Once Nenekazi Dahlia plants begin to grow, consistent care is important for abundant blooms. Water deeply two to three times a week, allowing the top inch of soil to dry slightly between waterings to prevent root rot. Watering at the base of the plant in the early morning helps keep foliage dry and reduces fungal issues. Mulching around the plants helps retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.
Fertilization should occur monthly throughout the growing season using a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage flowering rather than excessive leafy growth. As Nenekazi Dahlias can grow quite tall, staking is often necessary to provide support and prevent stems from breaking. Install stakes at planting time to avoid damaging tubers later.
Regular deadheading of spent blooms encourages the plant to produce more flowers. Remove old flowers by cutting the stem back to the next branching flower or bud. Monitor for common pests like aphids, slugs, snails, and earwigs, as well as diseases such as powdery mildew. Address issues promptly with appropriate organic solutions or by ensuring good air circulation through proper spacing and pruning lower leaves.
Overwintering Nenekazi Dahlia
For gardeners in colder climates, overwintering Nenekazi Dahlia tubers is a common practice to preserve them for the following year. After the first hard frost blackens the foliage, cut the stems back to a few inches above the ground. Wait about 10 days before carefully digging up the tubers.
Once lifted, gently remove excess soil. Allow the tubers to air dry and cure for one to two days in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. This drying period helps prevent rot during storage. After drying, store the tubers in a cool, dark, and frost-free location, ideally between 40-45°F (4-7°C), with moderate humidity around 80-90%.
Pack tubers in a container filled with a storage medium such as peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings, ensuring they are not touching each other. Periodically check the tubers throughout the winter for any signs of rot or shriveling, adjusting humidity if necessary. Remove any diseased tubers to prevent spread.