The Graptoveria ‘Lola’ succulent is a hybrid resulting from a cross between Graptopetalum and Echeveria species, often referred to simply as Echeveria ‘Lola’. This plant forms a compact, symmetrical rosette of fleshy leaves that are typically a pale lavender or blue-green color. Its distinctive, soft, pastel appearance comes from a thick, natural coating of epicuticular wax, known as farina, which gives the rosette a pearlescent texture. Understanding its arid-climate origins is key to successfully cultivating this succulent.
Ideal Environmental Placement
The ‘Lola’ succulent requires significant light exposure to maintain its compact rosette shape and vibrant coloring. It thrives best when receiving at least six hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. Placing the plant in a south or west-facing window is often the best indoor location, or a spot outdoors that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Insufficient light is a common issue that causes the plant to stretch out abnormally, a process called etiolation, as it seeks a light source.
While bright light is needed, intense, direct afternoon sun, especially during extreme heat, can scorch the leaves and damage the farina coating. The plant’s ideal temperature range is between 65°F and 80°F (18°C to 27°C), which suits most indoor environments. This succulent is not frost-hardy and must be protected when temperatures drop below 35°F, as freezing weather causes permanent damage. It prefers a low-humidity environment, so ensuring good air circulation helps prevent moisture-related issues.
Essential Soil and Container Requirements
Providing excellent drainage is essential for the ‘Lola’ succulent’s potting environment. The soil must dry out quickly to prevent the roots from sitting in excess moisture, which leads to decay. A commercial cactus or succulent potting mix is suitable, but better results are achieved by amending it with mineral grit. A blend incorporating 50% to 70% gritty material, such as perlite, pumice, or coarse sand, ensures rapid drainage.
The container itself must have a drainage hole; a pot without one leads to water retention and root problems. Unglazed terracotta pots are the preferred material because their porous nature allows moisture to evaporate more readily through the sides, helping the soil dry out faster. Repotting is generally needed every one to two years, or when the plant becomes root-bound. When repotting, select a container only slightly larger than the previous one and always use fresh, well-draining soil mix.
Watering and Fertilization Techniques
The ‘Lola’ succulent should be watered using the “soak and dry” method, mimicking the infrequent, heavy rains of its native arid habitat. This technique involves thoroughly saturating the soil until water flows freely out of the drainage holes, then allowing the entire soil volume to dry out completely before watering again. Allowing the soil to completely dry is necessary, as the plant stores moisture in its fleshy leaves and tolerates drought better than excessive wetness.
A simple way to check for dryness is to insert a wooden skewer or stick into the soil; if it comes out clean and dry, the plant is ready for water. Seasonal changes require adjustments to the watering schedule, as the plant enters a period of reduced growth, or dormancy, during the cooler winter months. During this time, water frequency must be significantly reduced, often to only once a month or less, merely enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilization requirements are low, as this succulent is adapted to nutrient-poor soils. If desired, a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer can be applied, but it must be diluted to half or quarter strength to prevent chemical burn on the roots. Feeding should only occur during the active growing season of spring and summer, with application limited to once every four to six weeks. Fertilizing outside of the growing season is unnecessary and may harm the plant.
Propagation and Problem Solving
The ‘Lola’ succulent can be propagated through two primary methods: leaf cuttings and removing offsets. For leaf propagation, a healthy leaf is gently twisted off the stem, ensuring the entire base is intact. The detached leaf must then be left in a dry location for several days until the broken end forms a protective callus. After callousing, the leaf is placed on top of moist, well-draining soil, and roots and a new rosette will emerge.
Offsets, or “pups,” are small new plants that grow around the base of the mother plant and can be removed with a sterile knife, allowed to callous, and then planted in their own pot. When troubleshooting issues, the most common problem is root rot, which appears as soft, yellow, or mushy leaves that fall off easily and is caused by overwatering. Conversely, underwatering causes the leaves to shrivel and turn brown. Pests like mealybugs and spider mites can occasionally affect the plant; these can be treated by wiping the affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol or by using insecticidal soap.