The Laurel ‘Etna’ (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Etna’) is a popular, dense evergreen shrub prized for its compact, bushy habit and striking foliage. New growth emerges bronze-red or orange before maturing into glossy, deep-green, leathery leaves that persist year-round. The ‘Etna’ is notably hardy, tolerating cold, wind, and urban pollution better than many other cherry laurels. Successful cultivation depends on establishing the correct environment and implementing specific long-term care techniques.
Optimal Site Selection and Planting
Choosing the right location is the first step in ensuring the long-term health of your ‘Etna’ laurel. The shrub is versatile, thriving in locations ranging from full sun to partial shade. While it tolerates shade, placing it in an area that receives several hours of direct sunlight each day will promote the most vibrant bronze coloration on the new spring growth.
The soil must offer excellent drainage, as waterlogged conditions can quickly lead to root rot. Although the plant can adapt to a variety of soil types, including clay and sandy loam, heavy clay should be amended with organic matter like compost to improve porosity. The ideal soil pH for cherry laurel ranges from slightly acidic to neutral, generally between 6.0 and 7.5, though it can tolerate a slightly higher alkalinity.
When planting, the hole should be dug approximately twice the width of the root ball but no deeper. Ensure the root flare—the point where the roots begin to spread out from the trunk—is level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Planting the shrub too deeply can suffocate the roots and lead to a slow decline. After positioning the plant, backfill the hole, gently firm the soil, and water deeply to settle the soil around the roots.
Essential Long-Term Maintenance
Once established, the ‘Etna’ laurel requires consistent care to support its dense growth. Established plants show good drought tolerance, but they still require deep watering during prolonged dry periods, especially in the first few years. It is best to water thoroughly at the base of the plant rather than frequent, shallow sprinkling, which encourages surface roots.
Feeding the shrub annually in the spring encourages the lush, thick foliage that is characteristic of this cultivar. A slow-release, balanced granular fertilizer should be applied around the plant’s drip line just as new growth begins. This provides a steady supply of nitrogen to fuel leaf production without causing a sudden surge of weak growth.
Pruning requires a specific technique to maintain the plant’s aesthetic appeal. Unlike some hedges that can be sheared with hedge trimmers, using clippers on Prunus laurocerasus leaves is discouraged because it severs the large leaves, causing the jagged edges to turn brown and look unsightly. The proper technique involves selective hand-pruning of individual stems, cutting them back just above a leaf or bud.
This targeted approach preserves the integrity of the broad leaves and encourages dense branching from within the shrub. The best time for pruning is in late spring or early summer, immediately after the first flush of new growth has hardened off. Although the ‘Etna’ is quite hardy, in regions with very cold winters and high winds, some protection, such as temporary windbreaks, may be beneficial to prevent leaf burn or desiccation.
Identifying and Addressing Common Health Issues
Several common issues can affect the health and appearance of the ‘Etna’ laurel, many of which are related to environmental factors. Shot-hole fungus is a frequent problem, appearing as small, circular spots on the leaves that eventually fall out, leaving behind perforations that resemble damage from a shotgun pellet. This condition is often exacerbated by poor air circulation or overhead watering that keeps the foliage wet for extended periods.
Managing shot-hole involves pruning and destroying the affected leaves and stems to reduce the fungal spores. Improving air movement by thinning out dense interior branches and switching to drip or soaker hose irrigation can significantly reduce the incidence of the disease. Yellowing leaves, or chlorosis, frequently indicate an iron deficiency, which is common in plants growing in high-pH or alkaline soils.
In alkaline conditions, iron becomes chemically bound and unavailable to the plant’s roots, even if it is present in the soil. A rapid, but temporary, solution is a foliar spray of chelated iron, which provides immediate iron uptake through the leaf surface. For a more lasting correction, soil amendments such as elemental sulfur or iron sulfate can be worked into the soil to gradually lower the pH and make the iron accessible to the roots.
The vine weevil adult stage is detected by the characteristic scalloped notching they chew along the edges of the leaves at night. The larvae, which are C-shaped grubs, feed on the plant’s roots, potentially causing sudden wilting and decline. Biological control is highly effective against the grubs and involves applying beneficial nematodes, specifically Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, to the soil as a drench. They are typically applied in the late summer or early fall when the grubs are actively feeding.