The ‘Jack Snipe’ daffodil is a delightful miniature bulb, classified as a Division 6 Cyclamineus hybrid. This cultivar is known for its relatively small size, typically reaching a height of 8 to 10 inches, and its early-to-mid-spring bloom time. It features long-lasting, creamy-white petals that are distinctly reflexed, or swept-back, surrounding a short, frilled, bright yellow trumpet, giving it a wind-blown appearance. ‘Jack Snipe’ is a favorite for naturalizing and adding early spring color to the garden.
Choosing the Right Location and Soil
Like most daffodils, this cultivar requires soil with excellent drainage to prevent the bulbs from rotting during their dormant period. Heavy clay or water-retentive soils should be amended with organic matter, such as compost, to improve permeability. The ideal soil pH for this miniature daffodil ranges from slightly acidic to neutral, though it is quite adaptable.
‘Jack Snipe’ performs well in full sun, which encourages robust growth and a strong flower display. Planting in partial shade is also acceptable, but the location should still receive at least four to six hours of direct sunlight daily during the active growing season.
Planting and Initial Establishment
The best time to plant ‘Jack Snipe’ bulbs is in the early to mid-fall, allowing the bulb sufficient time to establish a root system before the ground freezes. Plant the bulb so the top sits two to three times the bulb’s height below the soil surface. Since these are small bulbs, this typically translates to a planting depth of about four to six inches.
When placing the bulbs, ensure the pointed side faces upward, as this is where the shoot will emerge. For a visually impactful display, bulbs should be clustered, spaced approximately two to three inches apart. After planting, the area should be watered thoroughly to settle the soil around the bulb and encourage immediate root growth.
Seasonal Care and Maintenance
‘Jack Snipe’ requires minimal attention during the active growing period, from late winter to spring. Watering is generally only necessary if natural rainfall is scarce and the soil becomes dry, as daffodils are quite drought-tolerant once their roots are established. The soil should be kept uniformly moist only during the period when the foliage is actively growing and the plant is blooming.
Fertilizing is rarely necessary in rich, organically amended soil, but a light application can support the bulb’s energy reserves. When new shoots first emerge in early spring, a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertilizer can be applied, or a bulb food can be mixed into the soil at planting time. Pest issues are infrequent because the bulbs contain an alkaloid compound that makes them unpalatable. Bulb rot is the main problem to watch for, which is a direct consequence of poor soil drainage or excessive moisture.
Post-Bloom Management and Dormancy
Managing the foliage correctly after the flowers fade is important to guarantee blooms in the following year. Once the flower has finished, the spent bloom head should be removed, a process known as deadheading, to prevent the plant from expending energy on producing seeds. This action redirects the plant’s resources back into the underground bulb for storage.
The green foliage must be left completely intact after deadheading, even if it looks untidy. The leaves continue to photosynthesize, producing the sugars that replenish the bulb’s energy reserves. Do not cut, tie, or braid the foliage until it has naturally yellowed and begun to die back, which typically takes six to eight weeks after the bloom period ends. Overcrowded clumps that show a decline in flower production can be divided every three to five years, a task best performed just as the foliage dies back in early summer.