Succulents are diverse plants uniquely adapted to store water in their fleshy leaves, stems, or roots. This allows them to thrive in arid environments. Their diverse forms, colors, and textures make them popular choices for novice and experienced plant enthusiasts, valued for their striking appearance and ease of care.
Essential Succulent Care
Succulents require bright, indirect light for compact form and vibrant color. South-facing windows provide suitable indoor conditions. Insufficient light causes etiolation, leading to stretched, leggy growth. Intense direct sun can cause sunburn, appearing as discolored patches. Some varieties “blush” with deeper colors under light stress; extreme exposure is damaging.
The “soak and dry” method is recommended for succulent watering. Water thoroughly until drainage, then allow soil to dry completely before rewatering. Overwatering commonly causes decline, as succulents are prone to rot in consistently wet conditions. Check soil moisture with a finger or wooden chopstick to determine rewatering needs. Adjust watering frequency seasonally, needing less water during cooler, dormant periods.
Well-draining soil prevents waterlogging and rot. Specialized cactus or succulent potting mix is ideal, containing inorganic materials like perlite or pumice for enhanced drainage. If using a standard potting mix, add perlite or pumice to improve porosity. Pots must always have drainage holes to allow excess water to escape, preventing root saturation.
Most succulents prefer moderate temperatures, thriving between 60°F and 80°F. Some tolerate temperatures down to 40°F or up to 90°F. They are not frost-tolerant; protection is necessary in colder climates, often indoors. Succulents favor low humidity, common in most homes, particularly during winter.
Succulents are not heavy feeders and require minimal fertilization. Over-fertilization can lead to weak, leggy growth and damage. If fertilizing, a diluted, balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 1-1-1 or 2-1-1 NPK ratio) is suitable. Fertilize during their active growing season (typically spring and early summer) at half the recommended strength every two to four weeks.
Common Succulent Problems
Overwatering commonly leads to mushy, discolored leaves (yellow, pale, or translucent). The stem may become soft and black, indicating rot. If rot is suspected, allow the soil to dry completely; for severe cases, remove the plant to inspect and prune affected roots or stems. Healthy sections can be propagated.
Conversely, underwatering causes signs of dehydration: shriveled, wrinkled, or flat leaves that lose plumpness. Leaves may become dry, brown, and crispy, often starting from the bottom. Rehydrate by watering thoroughly until drainage, allowing the plant to absorb moisture.
Mealybugs and spider mites affect succulents. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses on leaves and stems. Spider mites may cause fine webbing and tiny spots on foliage. Early identification allows for effective treatment. Treat small infestations by dabbing mealybugs with rubbing alcohol or using insecticidal soap.
Leggy growth (etiolation) occurs when succulents lack enough light and stretch towards a light source. This results in elongated stems with widely spaced leaves. Stretched growth cannot revert, but moving the plant to a brighter location encourages new, compact growth. Leggy sections can be pruned and propagated for new plants.
Sunburn manifests as white, pale, brown, or black patches on succulent leaves exposed to intense direct sun. This damage is permanent and will not heal; affected leaves retain discoloration. To prevent further damage, move the plant to an area with less intense light or provide shade during peak sun. New leaves will replace sunburn.
Propagating Succulents
Propagating succulents from leaves is a common method. Gently twist a healthy, plump leaf from the stem, ensuring the base is intact. Allow the leaf to dry and form a callus for a few days to a week, preventing rot. Once calloused, lay the leaf on well-draining succulent soil in a shallow tray. Lightly mist the soil every few days; within weeks, roots and a new plantlet emerge.
Stem cuttings are another effective way to propagate succulents, especially leggy ones. Cut a healthy stem section, three to four inches long, with clean, sharp shears. Remove lower leaves to expose about a half-inch of stem; allow it to callous for several days to a week. Once calloused, insert the stem into well-draining succulent potting mix. Roots form within a few weeks, leading to a new plant.
Many succulents produce small offshoots, often called “pups” or offsets, around the mother plant’s base. These miniature versions are easily separated. Carefully remove offsets from the main plant, ensuring some roots are attached if possible. Allow the detached offset to callous for a day or two, then plant it into its own pot with suitable succulent soil.
Choosing and Repotting Succulents
When selecting succulents, look for plants with firm, plump leaves, free of wrinkling, shriveling, or mushiness. Foliage should have consistent color without unusual spots or discoloration. Inspect for pests like small insects, webbing, or cottony residue on leaves or in crevices. Choosing plants already in well-draining soil, rather than heavy, moisture-retentive mixes, is beneficial.
Repotting succulents is recommended every two years to refresh soil and provide space for growth. Repotting is best in spring or early fall, before their active growing season. Choose a new pot slightly larger than the old one, about 10% taller and wider, or two inches wider for faster-growing varieties. Ensure the new pot has a drainage hole to prevent water accumulation. When repotting, gently remove the succulent, loosen compacted roots, and remove old soil before placing it in fresh, well-draining succulent mix.