The Aloe vera plant is a popular, resilient succulent known for its fleshy, spear-shaped leaves that contain a soothing, clear gel. This gel has been used for centuries in topical applications to calm minor burns and skin irritations. Cultivating this desert native indoors is straightforward once its specific needs are met, making it an excellent houseplant for beginners.
Selecting the Ideal Environment and Container
The proper initial setup is foundational for healthy Aloe vera growth, beginning with the container choice. A pot made from unglazed terracotta or a similarly porous material is highly recommended because it naturally helps wick excess moisture from the soil. Regardless of the material, the container must feature at least one drainage hole at the base to ensure water never collects and saturates the roots.
Aloe vera is highly susceptible to root rot, so the potting medium must be fast-draining and well-aerated. A specialized cactus or succulent potting mix is the simplest choice, as these are formulated to prevent water retention. If using standard potting soil, drainage should be improved by mixing in amendments like perlite, coarse sand, or pumice at a ratio of up to 50 percent.
The ideal indoor temperature range for this plant is between 55° and 80°F (13° and 27°C). Placing the plant in a location where temperatures remain consistent ensures it can establish itself without stress. A snug container that is only slightly larger than the root ball is better than a huge pot, as a smaller volume of soil dries out more quickly, further reducing the risk of overwatering.
Watering and Lighting Requirements
Overwatering is the most common cause of decline for Aloe vera. The correct technique is called “soak and dry,” where you water the plant thoroughly until the water flows out of the drainage holes. You must then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again.
To check for dryness, insert a finger two inches deep into the soil; if you feel any moisture, delay watering for a few more days. The plant stores water in its thick leaves, allowing it to tolerate periods of dryness, and it is far better to underwater slightly than to overwater. Watering frequency will naturally decrease in the cooler winter months when the plant’s growth slows down considerably.
Aloe vera requires bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. A spot near a south- or west-facing window typically provides the necessary light intensity without the harshness of direct midday sun. Too much direct light can cause the leaves to turn a reddish-brown color, which is a sign of sunburn. Conversely, insufficient light will cause the leaves to stretch out and become pale and “leggy” as the plant reaches for brighter conditions.
Propagating New Aloe Plants
A mature Aloe vera plant produces small offsets, often called “pups,” which grow from the base. Propagating these pups is the easiest and most successful method for multiplying your collection. Wait until the pups develop a few sets of leaves and reach a height of at least an inch or two before attempting to separate them.
To remove a pup, gently unpot the mother plant and use a clean, sharp knife to cut the offset away, ensuring it has some roots attached if possible. If the pup does not have its own roots, or if the cut end appears moist, you must allow the wound to form a protective layer. Place the separated pup in a dry, shaded location for 24 to 48 hours to allow the cut surface to “callus” over.
Once the cut has dried, the pup is ready to be potted in its own small container using a well-draining succulent mix. Plant the callused end just deep enough to keep the pup upright, ensuring the lowest leaves rest above the soil line. Do not water the newly potted pup for about a week, allowing it time to establish itself before introducing moisture.
Common Problems and Gel Harvesting
The most frequent problem is root rot, indicated by leaves that turn soft, mushy, and yellow or brown, and it requires immediate corrective action by allowing the soil to dry out. Pests like mealybugs may also appear as tiny, white, cottony masses, which can be treated by gently wiping them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Harvesting the Gel
The gel is harvested from the plant’s leaves. Select an outer, mature leaf and use a clean, sharp knife to cut it as close to the base as possible. Stand the leaf upright in a cup for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the yellow, bitter liquid called aloin to drain out.
Aloin is a latex that can be a skin irritant and should be discarded. Once the aloin has drained, rinse the leaf, cut off the spiny edges, and then carefully fillet the leaf to expose the clear, inner gel. The gel can then be scooped out and used topically.