The Amaryllis ‘Marquis’ cultivar, a popular Hippeastrum hybrid, offers spectacular indoor color, typically during the winter months. This variety is celebrated for its impressive, large flowers, which feature a double-layered arrangement of petals. The blooms are primarily a clean, ivory white, frequently displaying a subtle hint of green near the throat.
Unlike many single-flowered types, ‘Marquis’ produces multiple, substantial flower stalks from a single large bulb, ensuring an extended display period. These showy flowers make the plant a highly sought-after centerpiece for those seeking to cultivate a vibrant, living element indoors. The ability of the bulb to be forced into bloom makes it a favored subject for seasonal decoration.
Initial Planting and Location Requirements
The first step in establishing the Amaryllis ‘Marquis’ bulb is selecting a container that provides a snug fit. The pot should be heavy and only one to two inches wider than the bulb’s diameter to encourage flowering rather than excessive root growth. Proper drainage is necessary, and the container must have drainage holes to prevent root rot.
The potting medium should be a well-draining mix, often a peat-based soil, which offers aeration and sufficient moisture retention. When planting, the bulb is placed root-side down, ensuring that one-third to one-half of the bulb remains exposed above the soil line. This exposed “neck” helps prevent moisture from accumulating in the crown, which can lead to fungal issues.
After planting, the potted bulb requires a warm environment to stimulate root development before the flower stalk appears. An ideal initial temperature range is between 70°F and 75°F. The bulb should be placed in a location receiving bright, indirect light, which encourages the underground growth necessary to support the upcoming blooms.
Watering at this initial stage should be done sparingly, just enough to settle the soil around the roots. Overwatering before the emergence of the flower stalk can quickly cause the bulb to rot. Allow the soil to dry slightly between applications. This initial period of warmth and light promotes the vigorous root system that will sustain the plant through its active growth phase.
Ongoing Care During Active Growth
Once the flower stalk begins to emerge, the watering regimen must be gradually increased to support the rapid growth of the scape and foliage. Water the plant thoroughly only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch, ensuring the soil remains moist but never waterlogged. Avoid pouring water directly onto the exposed neck of the bulb, as this area is susceptible to rot.
As the stalk and leaves actively grow, the plant benefits from regular feeding with a balanced liquid fertilizer, typically every two to four weeks. This nutrient supply helps the bulb replenish the reserves used to produce the flower scape and encourages the development of healthy, strap-like foliage. Fertilization should be discontinued once the flowers begin to open, as this prevents excessive leaf growth from overshadowing the blooms.
The plant should be moved to the sunniest available spot once the flower stalk is established, as ample light promotes sturdier growth and richer flower color. To ensure the tall stalk grows straight and does not lean toward the light source, the pot should be rotated a quarter turn every few days. This rotation balances the plant’s phototropic response, resulting in a more upright stem.
The ‘Marquis’ cultivar, with its multiple double flowers, often develops heavy stalks that require physical support to prevent bending or snapping under the weight. A sturdy stake inserted near the edge of the pot and gently tied to the stalk provides the necessary stability. After the flowers have faded, they should be removed in a process called deadheading, but the flower stalk must remain intact until it naturally yellows.
Managing the Dormancy and Re-blooming Cycle
After the blooming cycle concludes, the plant enters a recovery phase where the large, green leaves work to rebuild energy reserves within the bulb. The leaves should not be cut off but maintained through the summer, continuing to receive water and fertilizer to maximize photosynthesis. This period of sustained foliage growth is directly responsible for ensuring a robust re-bloom in the following season.
To initiate dormancy, usually around late summer or early autumn, gradually reduce watering and completely stop fertilization. This environmental cue causes the leaves to naturally yellow and die back, signaling that the bulb has stored sufficient carbohydrates for its rest. Allow the foliage to fully yellow before cutting it off a few inches above the bulb’s neck.
The prepared bulb is then moved to a cool, dark, and dry location for its resting period, which typically lasts eight to ten weeks. A temperature range of 50°F to 60°F is suitable for this storage phase, as it resets the bulb’s internal clock. During this time, the bulb requires no water.
To time the next bloom, bring the bulb out of storage approximately six to eight weeks before the desired flowering date. The bulb can be repotted if necessary and moved back to the initial warm, bright location, and the watering cycle should be restarted. The shift from cool, dry dormancy to warm, moist conditions induces the bulb to send up a new flower stalk.