The Amaryllis genus (Hippeastrum) is prized for its dramatic, trumpet-shaped flowers that provide vibrant color indoors. The ‘Ice Pink’ cultivar stands out for its large, deep lipstick-pink blooms, which can span six to seven inches across. These striking flowers often feature an “icy” sheen or occasional slashes of hot pink on the petals. Successfully cultivating ‘Ice Pink’ requires understanding its specific needs, from initial planting to managing its rest period for future re-blooming.
Preparing the Bulb and Initial Planting
Successful growth begins with selecting a firm, healthy bulb that shows no signs of dark spots or softness. Before planting, trim any dead or dried-out roots and soak the remaining roots in lukewarm water for a few hours to rehydrate them. The bulb should be planted in a container that is only one to two inches wider than the bulb itself, as Amaryllis bulbs thrive when they are slightly root-bound.
Use a free-draining potting mix, such as a soilless mix containing peat moss and perlite, to prevent rot. The bulb must be positioned so that at least one-third of its volume remains exposed above the soil line. Keeping the bulb’s “neck” dry helps reduce the risk of fungal disease. After planting and gently firming the soil, water thoroughly once to settle the mix. Place the pot in a location with bright, indirect light where temperatures are between 65 and 70°F.
Essential Care During the Growing Season
Water sparingly after planting until new growth, such as a flower stalk or leaves, becomes visible. Overwatering during this initial phase can lead to bulb decay and delay blooming. As growth appears, increase watering frequency, but only when the top inch of the soil feels dry. Avoid wetting the exposed neck of the bulb when watering to prevent rot.
Once the flower stalk emerges, move the plant to a location that receives maximum light. Rotate the pot every few days to prevent the stem from leaning toward the light source and ensure straight growth. Begin fertilization only after the bloom stalk starts to grow, using a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer every two to four weeks. Continue feeding the plant while the foliage is active to build nutrient reserves for the next bloom cycle. If the tall blooms cause the stalk to bend, insert a slender stake near the bulb for support.
Managing Dormancy for Re-blooming
After the Amaryllis finishes blooming, cut the spent flowers and the flower stalk off to within an inch of the bulb. Leave the leaves intact, as they recharge the bulb’s energy reserves for the following season through photosynthesis. Treat the plant as a regular houseplant throughout the spring and summer, continuing with regular watering and monthly fertilization.
To force the required resting period, typically starting in late summer or early fall, stop watering and fertilizing. The leaves will naturally yellow and wither as the plant enters this phase. Once the foliage has died back, move the pot to a cool, dark, and dry location for eight to twelve weeks. A temperature range of 45 to 55°F is ideal for dormancy. After the rest period, remove old foliage, water once, and place the pot back in a warm, bright spot to restart the growth cycle.