How to Grow and Care for Amaryllis Ferrari

The Amaryllis ‘Ferrari’ cultivar is a striking hybrid known for its large, velvety, deep red flowers. These blooms can reach up to seven inches across, rising on sturdy stems that typically grow 18 to 22 inches tall. Its color makes it a favorite choice for indoor winter displays and holiday decorating. The ease with which this bulb can be forced to flower indoors offers a spectacle during the colder months.

Selecting and Planting the Bulb

Success begins with selecting a healthy bulb that is large, firm, and free from any signs of mold or soft spots. Larger bulbs contain more stored energy, increasing the likelihood of producing multiple flower stalks with up to six flowers per stem. Choose a container only slightly larger than the bulb, ideally one to two inches wider than its widest point.

Ensure the container has drainage holes to prevent excess moisture, which can lead to bulb rot. A well-draining potting medium, such as a mix formulated for houseplants or bulbs, is necessary to provide aeration for the roots. To plant, fill the pot about halfway with the medium, set the bulb in the center with its roots spread out, and then fill in around it.

The planting technique requires leaving the upper one-third to one-half of the bulb exposed above the soil line. After firming the soil, water the medium lightly to settle it, allowing any excess water to drain completely. Place the newly planted bulb in a warm location, ideally 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which encourages initial root and stem development.

Daily Care Requirements

Once green growth begins to emerge, the ‘Ferrari’ Amaryllis requires ongoing care to ensure a robust bloom. The plant thrives in bright, indirect light, with a sunny window, such as one facing south, suitable for active growth. Rotating the pot every few days prevents the developing flower stalk from bending toward the light source.

Watering must be managed carefully to avoid saturating the bulb before roots are established, as overwatering causes failure. As the stem and leaves grow, increase the watering frequency, allowing the top inch of the potting mix to dry out before watering again. Do not pour water directly onto the exposed neck of the bulb, which helps prevent fungal issues.

During the active growth period, a stable indoor temperature of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit supports healthy development. Begin fertilization once the flower stalk and leaves are actively growing, using a water-soluble, balanced houseplant fertilizer every two to four weeks. This consistent nutrient supply helps the plant build the energy reserves. If the heavy, mature flower stalk begins to lean, providing a stake or support may be necessary to prevent it from toppling over.

Managing Post-Bloom Dormancy

After the red flowers have faded, preparing the bulb for re-blooming focuses on replenishing its energy stores. Carefully cut the spent flower stalk back to about an inch above the bulb, ensuring the long, strap-like leaves remain untouched. These leaves manufacture energy through photosynthesis.

For the next five to six months, continue to treat the plant as a regular houseplant, providing bright light, regular watering, and consistent fertilization. This period of active leaf growth is when the bulb accumulates the necessary carbohydrates to fuel the next year’s bloom cycle. In late summer or early fall, the plant must be induced into a period of dormancy.

To trigger dormancy, gradually reduce watering and cease all fertilization, allowing the foliage to naturally yellow and wither. Once the leaves are dry, cut them back to about two inches above the bulb. The potted bulb should then be moved to a cool, dark location, such as a basement or closet, where temperatures consistently remain between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

The bulb requires a rest period of at least eight to twelve weeks in this cool, dry environment. After the required chilling time is complete, the bulb can be brought out of dormancy by moving it back to a warm, bright location and resuming the initial, light watering schedule. This reintroduction to warmth and moisture will signal the bulb to begin a new cycle of growth, leading to blooms in approximately seven to nine weeks.