Aeonium ‘Blushing Beauty’ is a stunning hybrid succulent, resulting from the cross between Aeonium canariense and Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’. This award-winning perennial forms dense, upright rosettes of spoon-shaped leaves that can reach up to 8 inches in diameter. The foliage is typically a soft, velvety green, but develops a beautiful blush of red and purple on its edges when exposed to cooler temperatures and bright light. Its striking coloration and tree-like, branched structure make it a dramatic focal point in rock gardens or container arrangements.
Setting Up the Ideal Environment
The intensity of the plant’s coloration is directly tied to its light exposure, requiring full sun to partial shade to develop its characteristic pink and bronze blush. Insufficient light will cause the rosettes to turn greener, stretch out, and become spindly. The ideal soil must be extremely porous and fast-draining to prevent water retention around the roots. A specialized cactus or succulent mix amended with 50% to 70% mineral grit, such as pumice, perlite, or coarse sand, ensures proper drainage and aeration.
This succulent thrives in a Mediterranean-like climate and is not tolerant of hard frost; protect it when temperatures drop below 30°F. In regions with cold winters, growing ‘Blushing Beauty’ in a container allows for easy relocation indoors to a bright window or under a grow light. Conversely, intense midday summer sun can burn the leaves, so providing light afternoon shade in extremely hot climates is beneficial.
Watering and Nutritional Requirements
Aeonium ‘Blushing Beauty’ is a winter-growing succulent; its active growth period occurs during the cooler, wetter months from fall through spring. During this time, the plant requires more regular watering than many other succulents due to its shallow root system. Apply the “soak and dry” method: thoroughly drench the soil until water runs out of the drainage holes, then allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. This deep watering mimics its native habitat and encourages robust root development.
Over the active growing season, from late fall to early spring, the plant benefits from a light feeding to support its growth. Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength once every three to four weeks. Using a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content is preferable to avoid encouraging weak, overly lush growth. As the weather warms and the plant prepares for dormancy, gradually reduce both the watering frequency and the feeding schedule.
Navigating the Summer Dormancy Period
The summer dormancy period is the most important aspect of Aeonium care, as the plant enters a survival state to cope with high heat and drought. Dormancy is signaled by the rosettes tightening up, curling their leaves inward, and exhibiting a stall in growth. This protective mechanism conserves the plant’s internal moisture.
During this phase, watering must be drastically reduced or ceased entirely, as irrigating a dormant plant is the leading cause of root and stem rot. A dormant Aeonium does not actively take up water from the soil, causing moisture to linger and create an environment where fungal pathogens thrive. If the plant is kept outdoors, move it to a location protected from intense afternoon sun and summer rainfall. In extremely dry conditions, a minimal, infrequent splash of water may be given only to prevent the stems from shriveling excessively.
Propagation and Structural Pruning
Aeonium ‘Blushing Beauty’ is easily propagated using stem cuttings or by separating offsets, which are small rosettes that emerge from the base of the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is during the active growth period in spring or fall when the plant is most likely to root quickly. Use a clean, sharp knife to take a cutting that includes a rosette and a short length of stem, ideally about four inches long.
The cutting must be allowed to dry and heal for several days until the cut end forms a protective callus, which prevents rot upon planting. Once calloused, insert the stem into a well-draining succulent mix and water sparingly until new roots establish, which usually takes a few weeks.
Structural pruning, often called “beheading,” involves cutting off an established rosette to encourage the single stem to branch out below the cut. This technique creates a bushier, multi-branched specimen and provides another cutting for propagation.