Taro, scientifically known as Colocasia esculenta, is a versatile tropical plant recognized for its striking foliage and edible corms. Often called elephant ears, dasheen, or cocoyam, it is cultivated globally for both its ornamental appeal and starchy tubers. Originating in Southeast Asia and India, taro has been a staple food for thousands of years, holding cultural significance in many societies, particularly across the Pacific Islands, Asia, and Africa.
Taro Plant Basic Care
Taro thrives in conditions mimicking its tropical origins. The plant prefers warm temperatures, ideally between 77-95°F (25-35°C), and requires a frost-free environment to mature properly. High humidity is also beneficial for its large leaves, and indoor plants can benefit from misting or humidifiers.
Taro performs best in full sun (over six hours of direct sunlight daily). While it can tolerate partial shade, providing at least 3-6 hours of sunlight supports healthy growth and the development of lush, large leaves. Too much shade can reduce the size of the edible corms. In hot, dry climates, some afternoon shade can protect the leaves from scorching.
Taro is a water-loving plant, requiring consistently moist soil and thriving even in waterlogged conditions, similar to how rice is grown in paddies. The soil must never dry out, especially during the active growing season. For optimal growth, use rich, fertile, well-draining loamy soil that retains moisture. A slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 5.5 and 6.5, is preferable for taro, promoting better nutrient uptake.
Adequate fertilization supports vigorous taro growth, especially for corm varieties. Applying a balanced all-purpose organic fertilizer every 6-8 weeks after planting provides essential nutrients. For edible varieties, a high-potassium organic fertilizer or compost tea can encourage better corm development. Regular replenishment of the soil with organic matter, such as compost or aged manure, also helps maintain fertility and improves soil structure.
Planting and Growing Taro
Starting taro plants can be done using corms, tuber pieces, or small plant starts. Grocery store corms can be used; larger, firm pieces with a green bud are ideal. These can be rooted in water before planting or directly placed into the soil.
When planting in the ground, prepare the soil by incorporating compost or soil improver. Corms should be planted about 2-6 inches (5-15 cm) deep. Space plants 15-24 inches (38-61 cm) apart in rows about 40 inches (100 cm) apart. Wider spacing, around 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) apart, can allow plants more room to develop larger corms.
Taro can also be grown in containers, suitable for limited space or cooler climates. A large pot, at least 20-24 inches (50-60 cm) deep and wide, is recommended. While taro tolerates consistently wet conditions, containers should have drainage holes to prevent root suffocation, unless creating a bog-like environment. Filling the pot with a quality potting mix enriched with organic matter provides a good start for container-grown taro.
Harvesting and Storing Taro
Harvesting taro occurs when the plant reaches maturity, typically 6 to 12 months after planting, depending on variety and conditions. Maturity is indicated by lower leaves yellowing and dying back, and slowed growth. The main corms may also start to push slightly out of the soil surface.
To harvest, carefully dig up corms with a garden fork to avoid damage. The main corm and any smaller cormels or suckers growing off the sides can be gently loosened from the soil. After harvesting, the corms should be cleaned to remove excess soil and allowed to air dry briefly.
Taro corms do not store as long as other root vegetables. They are best consumed within a month of harvesting. For short-term storage, keep the cleaned corms in a cool, dry, and dark place. If grown in areas without frost, taro tubers can sometimes be left in the ground until needed, as long as the soil does not freeze.
Common Problems and Solutions
Taro plants are generally robust but can encounter common issues. Pests such as spider mites, aphids, and slugs can affect foliage. Spider mites, common in hot, dry conditions, can be managed by regular inspection and applying insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs can be deterred with appropriate barriers or traps.
Fungal diseases, like soft rot (Pythium species), can occur, especially in waterlogged conditions, poor air circulation, or acidic soils. Symptoms include mushy corms and stunted, yellowing leaves. Ensuring proper soil drainage and avoiding stagnant water can help prevent these issues. Crop rotation and burying plant debris through deep plowing can also reduce disease incidence.
Environmental stress often manifests as stunted growth or leaf discoloration. Insufficient watering can cause leaves to wilt and curl, while inconsistent watering can lead to brown spots or edges. Lack of adequate sunlight can result in leggy growth and yellowing leaves. Consistent moisture, appropriate light, and balanced fertilization resolve these problems and promote healthy development.
Winter Care for Taro
In cold winter regions, taro enters dormancy as temperatures drop below 45°F (7°C). In areas where frost occurs, taro is often grown as an annual or requires special overwintering. The plant will naturally begin to die back as colder weather approaches, signaling its entry into dormancy.
To overwinter taro in cooler climates, bring potted plants indoors before the first frost. Alternatively, the corms can be dug up from the ground. After harvesting, clean the corms and allow them to dry for a few days. Store the dormant corms in a cool, dry, and dark location, such as a basement or garage, where temperatures remain above freezing.
In spring, once frost danger passes and soil warms, replant stored corms. This allows the taro to resume its growth cycle and produce new foliage and corms for the upcoming growing season. For container-grown plants overwintered indoors, gradually reintroduce them to brighter light and increased watering as outdoor temperatures rise.