The Sassafras tree (Sassafras albidum) is a deciduous species native to eastern North America. It is instantly recognizable by the distinct shape of its leaves, which can include three different morphologies: an unlobed oval, a two-lobed “mitten,” and a three-lobed form, often appearing on the same branch. The foliage is especially striking in autumn, displaying vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and deep red.
The entire plant, from the bark to the leaves, releases a spicy, sweet scent when bruised, often described as a blend of root beer, cinnamon, and citrus. This fragrant quality made Sassafras a major commodity for early American colonists, who exported the root bark to Europe, believing it possessed medicinal properties. Today, the dried, ground leaves are still used as filé powder, a traditional thickening agent in Creole gumbo.
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Sassafras trees successfully grow across USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9. While they can tolerate partial shade, planting your tree in full sun is recommended, as this encourages the densest growth and the most spectacular fall color display. Trees grown in shadier conditions often develop a less compact, more open canopy.
The ideal planting location features well-drained, slightly acidic soil, with an optimal pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Sassafras performs best in rich, sandy loams, which allow its deep root system to establish unhindered. Good drainage is paramount for this species, so heavy, soggy clay soils should be avoided to prevent root rot.
The tree will tolerate poor or dry, sandy soils. Because Sassafras develops a deep taproot, selecting a permanent site that provides ample depth and space for this central root structure is important before planting begins.
Starting and Transplanting Sassafras
Successfully establishing a Sassafras tree can be challenging due to its sensitive and deep taproot. Purchasing container-grown nursery stock is the easiest and most reliable way to begin, as young trees adapt much better than older or wild-collected specimens.
When planting nursery stock, the hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep, ensuring the root flare sits slightly above the surrounding soil level. Backfill the hole with native soil, tamping gently to remove air pockets. A thorough, deep watering is required immediately after planting to settle the soil and minimize transplant shock.
Moving wild Sassafras saplings is strongly discouraged. This is because saplings, especially those that have sprouted from a parent tree’s root system, often lack sufficient fibrous roots to survive the move.
Propagation Methods
Sassafras can be successfully grown from root cuttings, which are generally more reliable than stem cuttings. Root sections can be taken during the dormant season and planted horizontally, or vertically if they already bear a sprout. Starting a tree from seed is the slowest method, requiring cold stratification for about 120 days at 41°F before germination can occur.
Essential Ongoing Care and Maintenance
Once the Sassafras tree is established, maintenance requirements are relatively low, but consistent attention is necessary during its early years. Newly planted trees require regular, deep watering throughout the first one to two growing seasons to encourage a strong root system. After maturity, the tree becomes moderately drought-tolerant, only needing supplemental deep watering during extended dry periods.
Fertilization is rarely necessary for established Sassafras trees, especially if they are growing in reasonably fertile soil. Applying a balanced fertilizer is only recommended in early spring if the tree shows signs of nutrient deficiency, such as pale foliage or stunted growth. Excessive fertilization can cause root damage, so it should be applied sparingly.
Pruning should be limited to removing dead, diseased, or broken branches, or for structural shaping, ideally performed in late winter when the tree is dormant. The most demanding aspect of care is managing its natural tendency to spread by sending up root suckers. To maintain a single-trunked specimen, these suckers must be removed promptly at the soil line as soon as they appear, preventing the tree from forming a dense, shrub-like thicket.