A rose tree, also known as a standard rose, is a distinctive garden feature that provides a formal accent and elevates blooms to eye level. This sculptural plant is not a true tree but a hybrid created through the horticultural technique of grafting. The appeal lies in its unique form, featuring a tall, straight trunk topped by a round head of foliage and flowers, resembling a lollipop. Standard roses are manageable, provided you understand their specific structure and maintenance requirements.
Understanding the Rose Tree Standard
A standard rose is two different plants joined together: a hardy rootstock providing the tall, straight cane, and a desired flowering rose variety grafted onto the top. The strong, upright cane, which serves as the permanent “trunk,” is typically chosen for its vigor and hardiness, often from a species like Rosa canina or ‘Dr. Huey’. This process allows a less hardy, highly decorative rose to be grown successfully in a structured form.
When selecting a standard rose from a nursery, inspect the cane for straightness and health, ensuring it is free of scars or damage. Check the graft union, which is the knob-like swelling at the top of the cane where the flowering variety is joined. This union must be firm and fully healed, as it represents the plant’s most vulnerable point.
The successful growth of the standard depends on proper placement, which demands at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. The soil must be rich in organic matter and drain exceptionally well, as roses will not tolerate standing water around their roots. Good air circulation is also beneficial to prevent the development of common fungal diseases.
Site Preparation and Planting
Before planting, prepare the site by amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to improve both drainage and nutrient retention. Dig a hole that is roughly twice as wide as the rose’s root ball but no deeper than the root ball itself. Roses benefit from a slightly acidic soil pH, ideally between 6.0 and 6.5.
The tall, top-heavy nature of a rose standard makes robust staking necessary to prevent the wind from snapping the cane or loosening the root ball. Unlike many other plants, the stake should be driven into the hole before the rose is placed, preventing damage to the roots. The stake should be sturdy and tall enough to reach just below the graft union at the top.
Position the rose in the hole, ensuring the graft union remains well above the soil line, and then backfill with the amended soil. Firm the soil to remove air pockets, and then secure the cane to the stake with flexible ties that will not cut into the bark as the plant grows. The ties should be placed just under the graft union and halfway down the cane to provide maximum support.
Routine Care and Feeding
Consistent, deep watering is required, especially during dry periods, to establish a strong root system. Apply water slowly and directly to the base of the plant, allowing the moisture to penetrate deeply into the soil. Avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal issues.
Roses are heavy feeders and require a steady supply of nutrients to support continuous blooming. Begin fertilizing in the spring when the new leaf growth is two to three inches long, using a slow-release granular fertilizer formulated for roses. Reapply this feed every six to eight weeks, following the product instructions closely.
For repeat-blooming varieties, the removal of spent flowers, known as deadheading, is important to encourage blooming. Snip the faded bloom just above the first set of five leaflets that faces outward from the center of the canopy. Regularly inspect the foliage for early signs of common pests like aphids or spider mites, which can be managed with a strong jet of water or an insecticidal soap solution.
Seasonal Pruning and Winterization
Pruning the standard rose is focused entirely on the head, or canopy, to maintain the desired rounded or “lollipop” shape. This task is best performed in late winter or early spring, just as the buds begin to swell and before new growth starts. The goal is to reduce the overall size by about one-third to one-half, stimulating strong, new growth.
When cutting, make a clean, forty-five-degree angle cut approximately one-quarter inch above an outward-facing bud. Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, along with branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Thinning the center of the canopy improves air circulation, which helps prevent disease.
Standard roses require specialized winter protection due to the high graft union’s vulnerability to frost damage. Before the first hard frost, stop fertilizing and reduce watering to help the plant enter dormancy. In moderately cold areas, the canopy can be wrapped with burlap or insulating rose cones, stuffing the interior with straw or shredded leaves. In regions with consistently deep freezes, the “Minnesota Tip” is used, where the entire plant is tipped over. This technique involves loosening the soil around the roots, laying the standard into a prepared trench, and covering it with soil and a thick layer of mulch until spring.