The Rabbit Foot Fern (Davallia fejeensis) is a tropical plant prized for its distinctive appearance. Native to the Fiji Islands and the South Pacific, it naturally grows as an epiphyte, anchoring itself to trees or rocks. Its name comes from the thick, fuzzy, brown-scaled rhizomes that creep along the soil surface and often spill over the edge of the pot, resembling a rabbit’s foot. The combination of these unique, hairy rhizomes and the plant’s delicate, lacy green fronds makes it a popular and visually interesting houseplant for indoor environments.
Essential Environmental Conditions
The Rabbit Foot Fern thrives under conditions that mimic its native forest floor environment, starting with appropriate light exposure. It requires bright, indirect light to fuel healthy growth and to maintain its lush green color. Placing the fern near a north- or east-facing window generally provides the ideal filtered light without the risk of damage. Direct, intense sunlight, especially from south or west exposures, can easily scorch the delicate fronds, causing them to turn brown and crispy. Conversely, too little light will result in stunted growth and sparse foliage, diminishing the plant’s ornamental appeal.
Temperature stability is important for this tropical species, which prefers average room temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Exposure to cold drafts or temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit can stress the plant and cause leaf drop. Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations, such as those near heating or cooling vents, to maintain a consistent environment.
High humidity is a significant factor for the fern’s well-being, reflecting its origin in moist, forested areas. While somewhat tolerant of lower humidity, it performs best when relative humidity is maintained between 60% and 70%. Practical methods for increasing localized humidity include placing the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom does not touch the water. Grouping the fern with other houseplants or using a dedicated room humidifier are also effective ways to replicate the necessary moisture levels.
Planting and Substrate Requirements
Selecting the correct potting medium is important due to the fern’s epiphytic nature. The substrate must be airy, retain some moisture, yet drain very quickly to prevent the roots from sitting in saturated conditions. A specialized mix incorporating materials like peat moss, perlite, and standard potting soil, often in equal parts, provides the necessary structure and slightly acidic pH that these ferns favor. Heavy garden soil is too dense and will likely lead to poor aeration and water retention, which can cause root issues.
The container should accommodate the plant’s naturally shallow root system and spreading rhizomes. Shallow pots or hanging baskets are particularly suitable because they allow the rhizomes to creep over the edges and display their characteristic appearance. Containers made of terracotta or clay facilitate better air circulation and moisture evaporation. When repotting, choose a container only slightly larger than the current one, as these ferns do not require frequent disturbance.
The fuzzy rhizomes should never be buried beneath the soil surface. These rhizomes are designed to absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and are prone to rot if they remain covered and constantly damp. Instead, the rhizomes must rest directly on top of the potting mix or cascade over the container sides. They can be gently secured to the surface with a small pin or wire until they naturally anchor themselves into the medium.
Routine Care and Feeding
Consistent and thoughtful watering is necessary, as the soil needs to remain evenly moist, but not waterlogged, during the growing season. Water thoroughly until it flows from the drainage holes, then allow the top inch of the soil to dry before the next application. Allowing the plant to sit in standing water quickly leads to root rot, which is a common cause of decline.
Use room-temperature, filtered, or distilled water, as the fern can be sensitive to the chlorine and mineral salts found in some tap water. The exposed rhizomes can be lightly misted daily or weekly to supplement moisture intake, but primary watering should be directed to the soil. The rhizomes are capable of absorbing moisture directly from the air, which helps them survive short periods of dryness better than many other ferns.
Fertilization should be approached with caution, as ferns are light feeders and sensitive to over-application, which causes salt burn. During the active growth period of spring and summer, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer once every two to four weeks. This fertilizer must be diluted to half or quarter strength to prevent chemical damage to the roots. Stop fertilization completely during the fall and winter months.
Routine pruning is minimal and focuses on maintaining the plant’s appearance and energy efficiency. Trim old fronds that have turned brown or yellow away at the base using sterilized scissors or shears. This removal encourages the fern to redirect energy toward producing new, healthy growth. The rhizomes do not typically require pruning unless they are damaged or needed for propagation.
Troubleshooting Common Issues and Propagation
The browning or crisping of the frond tips indicates insufficient humidity or potential salt buildup in the soil. If the air is dry, increasing the use of a humidifier or pebble tray usually resolves the issue. If the problem persists, flushing the soil with a large volume of distilled water once or twice a year helps wash away accumulated fertilizer salts that are damaging the roots.
Mushy, soft rhizomes or yellowing foliage often signal overwatering and the onset of root rot. This condition occurs when saturated soil remains for too long, depriving the roots of necessary oxygen. Remedying this requires immediately reducing watering frequency and ensuring the potting mix and container provide proper drainage and aeration. Common houseplant pests, such as scale, spider mites, and mealybugs, can also affect the fern, especially in dry conditions. Small infestations can be treated by manually wiping pests away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or by using a horticultural oil.
Propagation is straightforward and achieved through the division of the rhizomes, avoiding the complexity of spore cultivation. To create a new plant, select a healthy rhizome section that is at least two to three inches long and includes a few attached fronds. Using a clean, sharp knife, cut the section away from the parent plant and place it on the surface of a fresh, well-draining potting mix. The cutting should not be buried but laid on the soil surface, where it will anchor itself and begin to produce new fronds.