Laurel plants are highly valued in landscaping for their dense, evergreen foliage, making them excellent choices for privacy screens, formal hedges, or specimen plants. The term “laurel” applies to several different species, each with unique characteristics and care requirements. Understanding these differences is foundational to successful cultivation. This guide provides cultivation and maintenance guidelines for the most popular varieties grown by home gardeners.
Identifying Your Laurel and Site Requirements
A successful planting begins with identifying your laurel variety and matching it to the correct environmental conditions. The three most common types cultivated are the true Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis), the Cherry Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), and the Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Each species has distinct preferences regarding light, soil, and hardiness.
Bay Laurel, the source of the culinary bay leaf, is a Mediterranean native. It prefers full sun to partial shade and thrives in well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil (Zones 7b-10). This variety will not tolerate perpetually wet conditions, which cause root rot.
The fast-growing Cherry Laurel, often used for hedging, is extremely adaptable. It tolerates full sun down to heavy shade, flourishing across Zones 6-9. Prunus laurocerasus prefers fertile, well-drained soil but tolerates a range of soil types, including clay, provided drainage is adequate.
Mountain Laurel, an ornamental native of the eastern United States, requires highly specific soil conditions. This shrub needs acidic, humus-rich, and consistently moist but well-drained soil (pH 5.0–5.5), and is hardy in Zones 4-8. It performs best in partial shade, benefiting from protection against harsh afternoon sun, which can cause leaf scorch.
Proper Planting Techniques
The ideal time to plant most laurels is in early spring or early fall, allowing the root system to establish before summer heat or winter cold. For container-grown plants, the planting hole should be at least twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. A wide hole encourages roots to spread horizontally into the native soil.
Before placing the plant, gently loosen any tightly wound roots on the root ball surface to encourage outward growth. Ensure the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding soil surface, as planting too deeply can suffocate the crown. Backfill the hole with the original soil, mixing in compost or slow-release fertilizer if the native soil is poor. Tamp the soil gently to remove air pockets.
Immediately after planting, water the area thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Apply a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, keeping it several inches away from the trunk.
Routine Care and Pruning
Consistent moisture is necessary for newly planted laurels, requiring deep watering weekly during dry periods in the first year to encourage a robust root system. Once established, most laurels tolerate moderate drought but benefit from deep, infrequent watering during extended dry spells. Fertilization should occur once annually in early spring, using a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer formulated for evergreen shrubs.
Pruning is a major component of laurel maintenance, especially for formal hedges or screens. For large-leaved varieties like Cherry Laurel, use bypass hand pruners or loppers instead of hedge shears to avoid cutting leaves in half, which leaves unsightly brown edges. When pruning for shape, make cuts just above an outward-facing bud or leaf node to direct new growth and promote better air circulation.
Formal hedges should be trimmed to maintain a slight taper, wider at the base than at the top. This ensures sunlight reaches the lower foliage and prevents the base from becoming bare. Laurels tolerate being cut back hard into older wood for rejuvenation, a process best performed in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Laurels are tough plants, but they can suffer from specific fungal diseases and pests. A frequent cosmetic issue on Prunus laurels is shot hole disease, caused by fungi or bacteria. This manifests as small spots that dry out and drop from the leaf, leaving circular perforations. Powdery mildew, a white, powdery fungal growth on new leaves, develops under humid or crowded conditions.
Both diseases are best managed through cultural practices like improving air circulation and avoiding overhead irrigation that keeps foliage wet. Chemical treatment is rarely required, as the plant often produces new, healthy foliage when conditions improve. Promptly raking and disposing of fallen, infected leaves prevents the disease from overwintering.
For pests, the vine weevil is a significant threat, primarily to laurels grown in containers. The larvae feed destructively on the roots. Introducing beneficial nematodes (Steinernema species) into the soil in late summer or early fall provides a non-chemical biological control against the root-eating larvae.