The jaw plant, Faucaria tigrina, is a succulent famed for its unique appearance. Native to the semi-arid regions of South Africa, this low-growing perennial forms dense, star-shaped rosettes that rarely exceed six inches in height and width. Common names like Tiger Jaws or Shark’s Jaws come from the pairs of fleshy, triangular leaves. These leaves feature soft, bristle-like white “teeth” along their margins. Cultivating this plant requires specific environmental conditions to encourage its compact growth and autumn bloom of bright yellow, daisy-like flowers.
Essential Planting and Soil Needs
Planting the jaw plant successfully begins with selecting a container that prioritizes moisture evaporation and excellent drainage. Unglazed terracotta pots are recommended because their porous material allows excess moisture to wick away from the soil and roots. A large drainage hole is necessary to prevent water from pooling and causing root damage. When repotting, choose a container only slightly larger than the current root ball, as excess soil space retains unnecessary moisture.
The planting medium must be gritty and low in organic matter to mimic the rocky, arid soils of its native habitat. A commercial cactus and succulent mix provides a good base, but it should be amended with inorganic components to increase porosity. Incorporating materials such as perlite, pumice, or coarse sand ensures that water flows rapidly through the mixture. This prevents the roots from sitting in damp soil.
Optimal Light and Temperature Settings
Providing adequate light is important for maintaining the jaw plant’s naturally compact shape and encouraging seasonal flowering. This succulent requires bright light conditions, ideally receiving several hours of direct sun each day. For indoor cultivation, placing the plant in a south-facing window ensures it receives the intensity needed. This prevents etiolation, which is the stretching and pale growth caused by insufficient light.
The jaw plant tolerates direct sun, but protection from the most intense midday rays is necessary in extremely hot summer climates to prevent scorching. The plant thrives in warm temperatures, generally falling between 65 and 85°F during its active growing period. Though it can briefly withstand temperatures as low as 25°F if kept entirely dry, it is not frost-tolerant. It should be moved indoors when temperatures consistently drop below 45°F.
Managing Watering and Dormancy Cycles
Watering the jaw plant correctly is the most difficult aspect of its care, as it is highly susceptible to root rot caused by overwatering. The “soak and dry” method is the standard practice. The plant should be deeply watered until it runs from the drainage hole, and then allowed to dry completely before the next application. The best way to determine if the plant needs water is by observing the firmness of its leaves, as a slightly wrinkled appearance indicates it is drawing on its stored reserves.
The jaw plant’s natural growth cycle shifts its active period to the cooler months of spring and fall. Growth slows during both the height of summer heat and winter cold. During the extreme heat of summer, the plant may enter dormancy, requiring a significant reduction in water, or even a complete cessation. Similarly, watering must be drastically reduced as winter approaches to allow the plant to rest.
During the active growing season, a diluted, low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month to support healthy growth. Fertilization should be withheld during the dormant periods of summer and winter to avoid stressing the plant. Attention to seasonal changes and soil moisture level is important for long-term health.
Propagation Methods and Common Issues
The simplest and most reliable method for propagating the jaw plant is through the division of its offsets, or “pups.” These naturally sprout around the base of the parent plant. These small clumps can be gently separated during the active growth period of late spring or early summer, and then replanted in fresh, well-draining soil. If the separated offsets do not have roots, allow the cut surface to dry and form a protective callus for a few days before planting.
Propagation from seed is also possible, with seeds typically sown in a gritty mix during the fall. Leaf cuttings are generally considered less successful for this species. If attempted, the leaves must be allowed to callous over before being placed on soil. Fungal root rot remains the most serious common issue, resulting almost always from overwatering or poorly draining soil. Pests like mealybugs or spider mites may occasionally appear, but they can be managed with targeted application of insecticidal soap or neem oil.