The false Christmas cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) is a tropical epiphyte known for its vibrant, star-shaped flowers. Often mistaken for its winter-blooming relatives, its ease of care and appealing foliage make it a popular choice for both novice and experienced plant enthusiasts.
Identifying Your False Christmas Cactus
Distinguishing the false Christmas cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri or Hatiora gaertneri) from other holiday cacti, like the true Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) and Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), involves observing key physical traits. Its stem segments are typically rounded or scalloped, lacking the sharp “claws” of the Thanksgiving cactus, and often feature small, soft bristles or nubs.
The false Christmas cactus, also called Easter cactus, generally flowers in spring, typically between March and May. This contrasts with Thanksgiving cacti (October-December) and true Christmas cacti (November-February). Its flowers are distinctly star-shaped and often point upwards, unlike the more tubular, downward-pointing blooms of Schlumbergera species. Native to the coastal mountains of southeastern Brazil, it naturally grows on trees as an epiphyte, absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air and rain.
False Christmas Cactus Care
Light
The false Christmas cactus thrives in bright, indirect light, mimicking its natural forest canopy habitat. An east or north-facing window is ideal, providing ample light without harsh direct sun. Direct sunlight, especially midday, can scorch delicate stem segments, causing discoloration. Rotate the plant periodically for even light distribution and balanced growth.
Watering
Allow the top inch or two (2.5-5 cm) of soil to dry completely before watering. Water thoroughly until excess drains from the pot’s bottom, then discard any standing water to prevent root rot. This plant is sensitive to both overwatering, which causes root decay, and underwatering, which causes wilting. Reduce watering frequency during its winter dormant period due to slower growth.
Soil
A well-draining, slightly acidic potting mix is essential for the false Christmas cactus, mimicking its epiphytic growth on tree bark. A suitable blend includes equal parts succulent/cactus soil, perlite, and orchid bark for aeration and drainage. Ensure the pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and maintain root health.
Temperature and Humidity
This tropical cactus prefers moderate temperatures, ranging from 60°F to 75°F (15°C to 24°C) during active growth. Cooler nighttime temperatures, around 50°F to 55°F (10°C to 13°C), are beneficial in late winter for flower bud formation. Given its rainforest origins, the false Christmas cactus appreciates higher humidity; a pebble tray or humidifier provides this.
Fertilizing
During its active growing season in spring and summer, the false Christmas cactus benefits from regular fertilization. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20 or 10-10-10), diluted to half-strength, monthly or every two to four weeks. Fertilizing supports healthy foliage and prepares the plant for robust blooming. In fall, as the plant rests, reduce or stop fertilization until the next growing season.
Encouraging Blooms and Propagation
Bloom Induction
To encourage a prolific spring bloom, the false Christmas cactus requires a cool, dry rest period. Starting in late winter or early spring, provide 8 to 12 weeks of shorter days and longer nights, ideally 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness. During this time, maintain cooler temperatures (50-55°F / 10-13°C) and reduce watering, allowing the soil to dry thoroughly. Once flower buds form, avoid moving the plant, as sudden changes can cause bud drop.
Propagation Methods
Propagating the false Christmas cactus is readily achieved through stem cuttings. Select a healthy stem segment, ideally two or three cladodes (leaf-like sections). Gently twist or cut the segment cleanly from the parent plant at a joint. Allow the severed end to dry and form a callus for a few hours to two or three days; this prevents rot when planted.
Once callused, insert the cutting about one inch deep into a well-draining potting mix, such as a cactus or succulent blend. Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy, and place the pot in bright, indirect light. Roots typically develop within a few weeks to a couple of months. Water propagation is also a viable option, where cuttings can be rooted in water before transplanting to soil.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Lack of Blooms
If your false Christmas cactus is not blooming, it’s often due to insufficient darkness or incorrect temperatures during bud induction. This plant needs a distinct cool, dark resting phase in late winter to early spring to initiate flowering. Provide 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness nightly and cooler temperatures (50-55°F / 10-13°C) for several weeks. Artificial light at night can disrupt its natural cycle and prevent flower formation.
Wilting or Shriveling Leaves
Wilting or shriveling leaves on a false Christmas cactus indicate watering inconsistencies. Underwatering causes segments to lose turgidity and shrivel from lack of moisture. Conversely, overwatering leads to root rot, also causing wilting or mushy, discolored segments as damaged roots cannot absorb water. Adjusting your watering schedule to allow the topsoil to dry thoroughly between waterings is key to addressing these issues.
Pests
While generally hardy, the false Christmas cactus may encounter common houseplant pests like mealybugs, spider mites, or aphids. Inspect the plant regularly, especially on the undersides of segments and in crevices. For minor infestations, wiping pests away with a damp cloth or a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol is effective. More persistent issues are managed with insecticidal soap or neem oil, following product instructions. Good air circulation also helps deter many common pests.