Growing an apricot tree from the seed of a piece of fruit is a rewarding project that begins with a small stone and a lot of patience. This process involves mimicking nature’s cues to encourage germination, essentially tricking the seed into believing that winter has passed and it is time to sprout. While the resulting tree may not produce fruit identical to its parent due to genetic variability, cultivating a fruit-bearing tree from a simple pit offers a unique journey for any home gardener.
Extracting and Preparing the Apricot Pit
The journey starts with the apricot pit, which is the hard, protective shell surrounding the actual seed, often called the kernel. First, you must thoroughly clean the pit to remove all traces of fruit flesh, as any remaining organic material can quickly lead to mold development during the stratification process. After cleaning, the pit should be allowed to dry for a few days to shrink the inner seed and make the shell more brittle.
The next step is to carefully crack the hard outer shell to extract the seed inside, which resembles a small almond. Use a nutcracker or vise, ensuring the inner seed is not damaged. Removing this shell is important because it contains germination inhibitors and acts as a physical barrier, making the seed sprout faster and more reliably once removed. Once extracted, the seed should be soaked in room-temperature water overnight to help soften the seed coat, preparing it for the next phase.
Simulating Winter: The Cold Stratification Process
Apricot seeds, like many temperate fruit seeds, possess a natural dormancy that must be broken to initiate germination, a process known as cold stratification. This technique simulates the cold, moist conditions of winter that the seed would naturally experience outdoors. For apricot seeds, the effective temperature range is typically between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit (0 to 7 degrees Celsius), which is easily achieved in a household refrigerator.
To stratify the seeds, place them in a sealed plastic bag or jar with a slightly moist medium, such as peat moss, coconut coir, or a damp paper towel. The medium should be moist like a wrung-out sponge, never soaking wet, to prevent fungal growth. The seeds need to remain in this cold, moist environment for a period typically ranging from 60 to 90 days. During this time, the cold temperature and moisture trigger internal chemical changes in the seed, breaking down the hormones that inhibit sprouting. Check the seeds periodically for any signs of mold and to ensure the medium remains consistently moist. Near the end of the stratification period, the seeds should begin to sprout tiny white roots, signaling they are ready for planting.
Planting the Germinated Seedling
Once the apricot seed has successfully sprouted a small root, it is ready to be moved into a growing medium. The initial container should be small, generally around four to six inches in diameter, and must have adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. A well-draining potting mix is best, perhaps one that incorporates compost and river sand or perlite to ensure aeration.
The germinated seed should be planted shallowly, typically about one to two inches deep, with the delicate root pointing downward into the soil. Covering the seed too deeply can prevent the emerging shoot from reaching the surface. After planting, the soil should be watered thoroughly to settle the mix around the seed and eliminate any air pockets. The newly potted seedling should be placed in a warm, bright location, such as a sunny windowsill or under a dedicated grow light, to receive six to eight hours of light daily. The soil must be kept evenly moist but never saturated to support the establishment of the young root system.
Caring for Your Young Apricot Tree
As the apricot seedling develops leaves and grows taller, its care shifts toward long-term maintenance and preparing it for outdoor life. Initially, the young tree will benefit from being grown in a one-gallon container until it reaches a height of six to twelve inches and has established a robust set of leaves. During its first year, it requires consistent watering, especially in dry periods, to encourage the development of deep roots.
Before transplanting the tree into the garden, it must undergo a process called “hardening off,” which gradually acclimates the tender indoor growth to harsher outdoor conditions. This involves moving the potted tree to a sheltered, semi-shaded outdoor spot for a few hours each day, slowly increasing the duration and exposure to direct sunlight and wind over one to two weeks. The final planting location should offer full sun exposure and well-drained, loamy soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH, ideally between 6.5 and 8.0. Fruit production will take time, with a typical wait of three to five years before the tree is mature enough to produce its first harvest.