The almond tree (Prunus dulcis) is technically classified as a stone fruit or drupe, belonging to the same genus as peaches and cherries. The edible portion is the seed found inside the leathery hull and hard shell of the fruit. Almonds are popular for their nutritional value and distinctive flavor, attracting both home gardeners and commercial growers. Successfully cultivating these trees requires attention to specific environmental needs and careful maintenance practices. This guide details the process of growing an almond tree, from selecting the proper location to harvesting the final crop.
Site Requirements and Preparation
The long-term success of an almond tree relies heavily on selecting a suitable site that meets its strict environmental demands, particularly concerning dormancy. Almond trees require a specific duration of cold temperatures, known as “chill hours,” to properly break dormancy and flower uniformly in the spring. This requirement typically ranges between 200 and 500 hours of temperatures below 45°F (7.2°C) during the winter months. If a tree does not receive sufficient chill hours, the bloom period can be extended and irregular, leading to poor fruit set.
The trees demand full sun exposure, needing at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for maximum growth and nut production. Almonds thrive best in deep, well-draining soil, with loamy or sandy-loam textures being ideal. Heavy clay or poorly drained areas must be avoided entirely, as the trees are highly susceptible to root rot. The soil pH should ideally fall within a slightly acidic to neutral range, typically between 6.0 and 7.0.
Before planting, conduct a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels, allowing for necessary amendments. If the soil is too acidic, incorporating lime can help raise the pH. Deep tillage of the planting area is recommended to accommodate the tree’s long taproot and encourage deep root penetration. Removing all weeds and perennial grasses from the immediate vicinity will reduce competition for water and nutrients during establishment.
Planting and Initial Establishment
The optimal time to plant an almond tree is during its dormant season, generally in late winter or early spring before bud break. Growers typically choose between bare-root stock, which should be planted immediately upon arrival, and container-grown stock. When planting, the hole must be wide and deep enough to accommodate the full spread of the root system without bending or trimming the main taproot.
Ensure the graft union—the slight bulge where the scion was joined to the rootstock—remains several inches above the final soil line. Planting too deeply can cause the scion to develop roots, potentially bypassing the benefits of the rootstock. After placing the tree, backfill the hole with the original soil, tamping gently to remove air pockets.
The newly planted tree requires a thorough, deep watering immediately after planting to settle the soil. For bare-root trees, an initial, severe pruning is recommended, cutting back the top one-third to one-half of the tree to balance the canopy with the disturbed root system. Temporary staking may be necessary in windy locations to prevent movement that could damage new root growth.
Ongoing Tree Maintenance
Once established, ongoing maintenance focuses on providing resources for vigorous growth and maximizing future yield, with irrigation being a primary concern. Although almond trees are somewhat drought-tolerant due to their deep-rooting nature, they require consistent, deep watering. This is particularly important during the hot summer months and the critical period of nut development, as insufficient water will reduce nut size and overall production.
Fertilization is a continuing requirement, with nitrogen (N) being the most needed nutrient for almond production. For young, non-bearing trees, nitrogen should be applied in small, split applications starting after the first 8–12 inches of new growth in the spring, typically every four to six weeks. A general guideline for first-year trees is to apply no more than one ounce of actual nitrogen per tree per application to prevent root burn. Frequent, small applications are more effective and safer than a single large dose.
Pruning directs the tree’s energy and shapes its form for long-term health and production. During the first few dormant seasons, the focus is on formative pruning to establish a strong structural framework. This involves selecting three main scaffold branches spaced vertically and horizontally around the trunk, which will form the permanent skeleton of the tree. Branches with weak attachments should be removed.
Dormant pruning in later years is performed in the winter when the tree is inactive, minimizing sap loss and the risk of infection. This maintenance involves thinning the canopy to ensure adequate light penetration and air circulation. Thinning stimulates new fruiting wood, as almond fruiting spurs typically have a productive life of about five years. Common pests like the navel orangeworm and various fungal diseases, such as hull rot, are managed through good orchard hygiene, timely applications, and maintaining an open, well-ventilated canopy.
Pollination and Harvesting
A common oversight for new growers is the necessity of cross-pollination, as most commercial almond varieties are self-incompatible and cannot set fruit with their own pollen. To ensure a successful harvest, at least two compatible almond varieties must be planted in close proximity, allowing bees to transfer pollen between them. Selecting varieties with overlapping bloom times is important for effective cross-pollination. Some newer varieties are self-fertile, but even these may benefit from a nearby pollinator.
The harvest timing is determined by “hull split,” which typically begins in early to mid-July depending on the variety and local climate. This is the point when the outer, leathery green hull begins to split open, exposing the inner shell. Harvesting should commence when 95% to 100% of the hulls on the tree are visibly split.
Harvesting involves shaking the tree to dislodge the nuts, which fall to the ground. For a single tree, this can be done manually by knocking the branches with a pole, but commercial operations use mechanical shakers. Rapid removal of the nuts after hull split is important to minimize exposure to pests like the navel orangeworm and reduce the risk of fungal diseases. After collection, the nuts must be hulled—removing the outer green layer—and then dried thoroughly to prevent mold and ensure quality. Kernels must be dry before storage or processing.