How to Grow a Plant From a Cutting

Plant propagation via cutting is a method of asexual reproduction that creates a genetically identical copy of a parent plant. This technique, also known as vegetative propagation, involves taking a section of a stem, root, or leaf and encouraging it to regenerate into a new, independent organism. Utilizing cuttings is a popular and efficient way to expand a plant collection because it is cost-effective and bypasses the genetic variation that comes with growing from seed.

Gathering Supplies and Selecting the Stem

A clean, sharp cutting tool, such as a sterilized knife or pruning shears, is necessary to make a precise incision that minimizes damage to the plant cells. Sterilizing the tool with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution prevents the transfer of pathogens that could infect the new cutting or the mother plant. Containers for the rooting medium are also required, and these should be clean and have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

The best material is often a section of stem that is neither too soft nor too woody, typically categorized as softwood or semi-hardwood growth. Softwood cuttings are taken from new, pliable growth in the spring or early summer, while semi-hardwood cuttings are taken in late summer or fall from stems that have begun to mature and harden. Taking the cutting in the early morning, when the stem is fully hydrated, can help reduce the initial stress on the plant material.

Making the Cut and Preparing the Section

The cut should be made just below a node, which is the slightly swollen point on the stem where a leaf or bud is attached. This area naturally contains a higher concentration of meristematic cells, which are capable of dividing and differentiating into new root tissue. Making the cut at a 45-degree angle slightly increases the surface area for water absorption and subsequent rooting, especially when planting into a substrate.

The ideal length for a stem cutting is between three and six inches, ensuring it has at least two to three nodes. Immediately after the cut is made, the lower leaves, and any flowers or buds, must be removed from the bottom half of the stem. This preparation prevents the submerged foliage from rotting in the medium and redirects the plant’s limited energy stores toward root initiation. To promote the formation of adventitious roots, the cut end is often dipped into a rooting hormone, a substance containing synthetic auxins like Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) that stimulates cell division.

Choosing and Setting Up the Rooting Medium

The choice of rooting medium directly influences the type and strength of the root system that develops. Water propagation is a method where the cutting is placed directly into a container of water, offering the advantage of visually monitoring root growth and requiring minimal setup. However, the roots that form in water are structurally different, often called “water roots,” and can experience shock when later transplanted into soil because they are less adapted to absorbing oxygen from air pockets. The water should be changed every few days to replenish dissolved oxygen and prevent the growth of algae or anaerobic bacteria.

Alternatively, a soilless medium is a more reliable choice for developing robust “soil roots” that transition easily to a permanent pot. A sterile, well-aerated mix, such as a blend of perlite, peat moss, or vermiculite, provides the necessary moisture retention while allowing for adequate oxygen exchange, which is essential for root formation. To plant the cutting, a small hole is created in the pre-moistened medium using a pencil or dowel, which prevents the rooting hormone from being rubbed off the stem. The cutting is then gently inserted deep enough to bury at least one node, and the medium is lightly firmed around the stem to ensure good contact.

Monitoring Growth and Transplanting

Cuttings require bright, indirect light, as direct sun can cause the unrooted section to dry out and wilt too quickly. Maintaining high humidity is also beneficial because the cutting lacks roots to absorb water, making it prone to moisture loss through its leaves. This humidity can be maintained by covering the container with a clear plastic bag or a humidity dome, which helps regulate the microclimate.

The rooting process is accelerated by maintaining a warm temperature, ideally between 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, which promotes the enzymatic activity necessary for cell growth. A successful rooting is first indicated by new leaf growth at the top of the cutting, signifying that water uptake is occurring. After a few weeks, a gentle tug on the stem will confirm root establishment if resistance is felt, or roots may be visible through clear containers or drainage holes. Once the roots are about an inch long and show branching, the new plant is ready to be transplanted. This final step involves a process called hardening off, where the plant is gradually exposed to the less humid, outdoor environment over a period of 7 to 10 days to minimize transplant shock.