The Money Plant, most commonly identified as Epipremnum aureum or Pothos, is a popular choice for indoor cultivation due to its trailing growth habit and tolerance for varying light conditions. This vining plant, sometimes called Devil’s Ivy, adapts successfully to the indoor environment, offering lush foliage. Cultivating this plant successfully indoors involves understanding its specific needs, from initial propagation through to long-term care. This guide provides a focused approach to establishing and maintaining a thriving Pothos.
Starting Your Money Plant: Propagation Methods
A new Money Plant is easily started from a cutting, making it simple to multiply your collection or share with others. The most reliable method involves taking a stem segment that includes at least one node, which is the small bump on the vine where roots naturally develop. Use clean, sharp shears to take a cutting that is approximately four to six inches long, ensuring you cut just below a node.
The newly severed stem can be rooted in either water or soil. Water propagation is often preferred by beginners as it allows the root development to be clearly visible. Place the cutting in a container of room-temperature water, making sure to submerge the node while keeping any attached leaves above the waterline. Refreshing the water weekly prevents the buildup of bacteria.
Alternatively, the cutting can be rooted directly in a pot of moist soil, which encourages the development of stronger, more soil-adapted roots. Dipping the cut end in a rooting hormone powder before planting can accelerate root initiation. Once roots are visible and have reached about two to three inches in length in water, the cutting should be transitioned into a well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist for the first week or two after transplanting to help the roots acclimate.
Creating the Ideal Indoor Habitat
The ideal habitat for a thriving Pothos begins with proper light placement, which directly influences the plant’s growth rate and leaf variegation. This plant prefers bright, indirect light, such as that provided by a north- or east-facing window. While it tolerates lower light levels, insufficient light will cause the plant’s growth to become “leggy,” with long gaps between leaves, and any golden or white patterns on the foliage will begin to fade to solid green. Direct, unfiltered sunlight should be avoided because the intense solar radiation can easily scorch the leaves.
The watering regimen requires careful management, as overwatering is the most common cause of decline in indoor plants. Water the plant only when the top one to two inches of the soil mass feels dry to the touch, which typically translates to watering every one to two weeks. It is far better for the plant to experience a brief period of dryness than to be left sitting in perpetually saturated soil, which deprives the roots of oxygen and leads to root rot. The pot must have a drainage hole to allow excess water to escape freely.
For the soil medium, select a blend that is airy and drains quickly to support the roots’ need for both moisture retention and aeration. A common and effective mixture combines standard houseplant potting soil with amendments like perlite or orchid bark to improve structure and porosity. The Pothos appreciates indoor temperatures between 60°F and 85°F. While it adapts to average household humidity, increasing the moisture in the air to 40%–60% will promote more vigorous growth and minimize browning of the leaf tips. Placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water or using a small room humidifier are effective ways to raise localized humidity around the plant.
Ongoing Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Routine maintenance ensures the plant remains vigorous and aesthetically pleasing. Fertilizing should be done exclusively during the active growing period of spring and summer to provide the necessary nutrients for new growth. Apply a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertilizer at half-strength once every one to three months, then cease feeding completely during the dormant winter months. Over-fertilizing is detrimental and can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, potentially burning the roots.
Pruning is an important practice for shaping the plant and encouraging a fuller, denser appearance. To promote bushiness, simply pinch or snip the growing tip of a vine just above a leaf node, which signals the plant to divert energy into lateral growth. Vines can be allowed to trail from a shelf or trained to climb vertically onto a structure, such as a moss pole or trellis, where the leaves may even increase in size.
Regular inspection of the foliage is necessary to catch common indoor pests like mealybugs, spider mites, or whitefly before they cause significant harm. If an infestation is detected, isolate the plant immediately and treat the affected areas by wiping the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or applying a horticultural oil, such as neem oil. Yellowing leaves are almost always a sign of overwatering or poor drainage, while dry, crispy brown tips usually point to low humidity or inconsistent watering practices.