The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is a highly sought-after houseplant, prized for its large, distinctive, violin-shaped leaves that add a dramatic element to any indoor space. Despite its reputation for being somewhat temperamental, it can be multiplied through propagation. Taking a cutting from a mature specimen is a common and effective horticultural method used to expand a collection or salvage material from a pruned branch. This process allows a piece of the parent plant to generate its own root system, developing into an entirely new, independent tree.
Selecting and Taking the Cutting
Select a healthy, vigorous stem from the parent plant that is approximately 6 to 12 inches in length. Before cutting, sterilize your pruning shears or knife using rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to prevent the transmission of pathogens. The cutting must include at least one leaf and one or more nodes, which are the small bumps on the stem where a leaf attaches and where new roots initiate growth.
Make a clean, angled cut about a quarter to a half-inch below a node to maximize the surface area for root development. The stem will immediately exude a milky white latex sap, which is normal for Ficus plants. Once the sap flow slows, dip the cut end into a powdered or gel rooting hormone containing synthetic auxins. Remove any lower leaves that would be submerged in the rooting medium, as they can rot and contaminate the environment.
Methods for Encouraging Root Development
The cutting can be rooted using two primary methods: water or a specialized soil medium. The water method is popular because it allows for direct observation of root development, typically in a clear glass container. The submerged node must be below the waterline, and the water should be changed every few days to maintain oxygen levels and prevent stagnation. Roots usually appear as small white nubs within a few weeks and should grow to about one to three inches before potting.
Alternatively, place the cutting directly into a sterile, highly porous rooting medium, such as a mix of perlite and peat moss or coconut coir. This approach avoids the shock of transitioning from water to soil roots, though it conceals root growth progress. Insert the cutting deep enough so at least one node is below the surface of the medium, which must be kept consistently moist but never waterlogged.
High ambient humidity is beneficial for both methods, but it is especially important for soil-rooted cuttings. This is often achieved by loosely covering the cutting and pot with a clear plastic bag or dome to create a mini-greenhouse effect. The cutting requires a warm, stable environment, ideally between 70°F and 80°F. Place the container in bright, indirect sunlight to encourage photosynthetic activity without scorching the leaves. The entire rooting process typically takes six to eight weeks before a robust root system is established.
Transitioning the Rooted Cutting to Soil
The newly rooted cutting must be moved from its rooting environment into a permanent potting mix. Water-rooted cuttings require careful attention to prevent transplant shock, as their delicate roots differ structurally from soil roots. Before planting, water-rooted cuttings benefit from “hardening off,” where they are gradually exposed to lower humidity for a few days.
Select a small pot, typically four to six inches in diameter, sized appropriately for the initial root mass. Using an overly large container can lead to excess moisture retention and root rot. Fill the pot with a well-draining soil mix designed for tropical houseplants, often including potting soil, orchid bark, and perlite.
Gently plant the cutting, ensuring the new roots are not damaged, and lightly firm the soil around the stem base. After potting, delay heavy watering for a few days to allow minor root abrasions to heal and reduce the risk of pathogens. Following this initial period, water the new plant thoroughly. Maintain a consistent watering schedule, allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out between applications.