A clone is a cutting taken from a mature mother plant, resulting in a genetically identical copy. Purchasing a clone from a licensed dispensary ensures reliable, known genetics and a pest-free start, which is valuable for predictable cultivation outcomes. This guide details the step-by-step approach for successfully cultivating a dispensary-bought clone from its initial phase through to a mature, harvestable plant.
Acclimating and Establishing the New Clone
The first few days after purchasing a clone are a period of transition that requires careful management to prevent shock. Safe transport home involves shielding the delicate plant from extreme temperatures and direct wind exposure. Once in the grow space, the clone needs a high-humidity environment, ideally between 70% and 80%, often achieved using a humidity dome or propagator.
Initial lighting must be low intensity to prevent leaf burn and stress, since the clone has been accustomed to a controlled, gentle environment. A light intensity below 300 PPFD, perhaps in the range of 170 to 250 micromoles, is suitable during this establishment phase. Maintaining a warm environment, with temperatures consistently between 70°F and 80°F, supports the development of new root growth.
After two to three days, once the clone shows signs of stability, it is ready for its first permanent home. The root ball should be handled gently during the transplant to avoid damage to the fragile, newly formed roots. Whether selecting soil or a soilless medium like coco coir, the container must have adequate drainage to prevent waterlogging, which is a common cause of failure in young plants.
Managing Vegetative Growth
Once established and actively growing, the plant enters the vegetative phase, where the goal is to maximize size and structure before flowering. During this period, the plant requires an extended photoperiod, typically 18 hours of light followed by 6 hours of darkness, or even 24 hours of continuous light, to suppress flowering hormones. This long light cycle signals to the plant that it is the middle of the growing season, encouraging aggressive foliage and stem development.
The plant’s nutritional requirements shift significantly to support rapid structural growth. Fertilizers during the vegetative stage should be high in Nitrogen (N), which is essential for developing chlorophyll, leaves, and stems. A nitrogen-heavy formula, often labeled as a “Grow” or “Veg” solution, provides the necessary building blocks for a robust canopy. Nutrient solutions should be introduced at a fraction of the recommended dose, gradually increasing concentration as the plant matures to prevent nutrient burn.
Proper watering involves allowing the top layer of the growing medium to dry out slightly between waterings, preventing the onset of root rot. Monitoring the pH of the water or nutrient solution is also necessary, aiming for a range of 6.0 to 7.0 in soil and slightly lower, 5.5 to 6.5, in soilless mediums, to ensure optimal nutrient uptake. As the plant gains size, growers can employ training techniques to manage its shape and maximize light penetration.
Techniques like Low Stress Training (LST) involve gently bending and tying down the main stem and branches, encouraging the lower growth sites to develop into major flowering colas. More aggressive methods, such as topping or FIMming, involve removing the main growing tip, which forces the plant to distribute growth hormones to multiple side branches. These training methods flatten the canopy, ensuring a more uniform distribution of light energy to all potential bud sites, ultimately increasing the potential yield.
Transitioning to Flowering and Harvest
The plant is triggered into its reproductive phase by switching the light cycle to 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness and 12 hours of light. This shorter photoperiod mimics the changing seasons, signaling to the plant that it must begin producing flowers. This light schedule change must be strict, as any interruption during the dark period can confuse the plant, causing it to revert to the vegetative stage or develop hermaphroditic traits.
Once flowering begins, the nutrient regimen must change to support bud development rather than leafy growth. The plant’s focus shifts away from nitrogen and toward Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K), which are critical for flower production and density. Growers switch to a “Bloom” formula, characterized by a higher ratio of P and K (such as a 0:3:3 ratio in the late stages), while gradually reducing the nitrogen input.
Maintaining a stable environment remains important, though humidity should be lowered to 40% to 50% during flowering to reduce the risk of mold or bud rot. As the harvest window approaches, typically one to two weeks before the anticipated cut date, the process of flushing begins. Flushing involves feeding the plant only plain, pH-balanced water to allow the plant to consume its stored nutrients, which is thought to improve the final quality and smoothness of the cured flower.
The final determination of harvest time relies on observing the trichomes, the tiny, mushroom-shaped resin glands on the buds, using a jeweler’s loupe or microscope. Trichomes transition from clear to milky-white and finally to amber. Harvesting when 70% to 80% of the trichomes are milky-white, with a small percentage turning amber, is generally the preferred window for peak potency and a balanced effect.
Identifying and Treating Common Problems
Despite careful cultivation, growers may encounter issues that require specific remediation. Spider mites are a common pest, visible as tiny specks that cause small yellow or white spots on the leaves and may leave fine webbing on the undersides of foliage. A gentle application of insecticidal soap or neem oil can help to eliminate an infestation.
Fungus gnats are small, dark flies that hover near the soil surface, and their larvae can damage young roots. Allowing the top layer of the medium to dry completely between waterings often breaks their reproductive cycle, and sticky traps can capture the adults. Mold and mildew, particularly powdery mildew, appear as a white, flour-like residue on the leaves and are often caused by poor ventilation and high humidity.
Identifying nutrient deficiencies or burn is done by observing leaf discoloration patterns. A general yellowing of the older, lower leaves usually signals a nitrogen deficiency, which can be corrected with a temporary increase in nitrogen-rich feed. Conversely, yellow or brown tips and edges on the leaves indicate nutrient burn, which is remediated by reducing the concentration of the fertilizer solution.