Growing a cherry tree offers the reward of harvesting fresh, flavorful fruit, but success requires understanding the specific needs of this stone fruit. Two main types are cultivated: sweet cherries (Prunus avium) and sour cherries (Prunus cerasus). Sweet cherries are typically eaten fresh, while sour cherries are ideal for baking and preserves due to their tart flavor. Although both belong to the Prunus genus, their growth habits and environmental needs differ, requiring careful planning and consistent maintenance.
Selecting the Right Variety and Site
The first step is deciding between sweet and sour varieties, as this choice dictates the necessary climate and care. Sweet cherries (Prunus avium) grow into larger trees and perform best in regions with mild summers and sufficient winter cold. Sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) are more cold-hardy, typically smaller, and are better suited for colder northern climates.
Fruit production is influenced by the chilling requirement, which is the total number of hours a tree must experience below 45°F (7°C) during winter dormancy. Most sweet cherry varieties require a substantial chill, often ranging from 700 to 900 hours. Sour cherries usually require fewer chilling hours, sometimes between 400 and 1,200 hours, depending on the cultivar. Failure to meet these specific chilling needs prevents the tree from setting fruit properly in the spring.
The chosen site must provide full sun exposure, ensuring the tree receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil must be well-drained, avoiding heavy clay, because cherry trees are highly susceptible to root rot. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, ideally between 6.0 and 6.8, supports optimal nutrient uptake and tree health.
Pollination dictates variety selection and planting arrangement. Most sweet cherry varieties are self-incompatible and require a second, compatible cultivar planted nearby for successful cross-pollination. Self-fertile cultivars like ‘Stella’ or ‘Black Gold’ can produce a crop without a partner. Sour cherries are typically self-fertile and will produce fruit on their own, though planting a second variety may increase overall productivity.
Planting the Tree and Establishing Roots
Proper planting ensures the tree establishes a strong root system. For bare-root trees, trim any broken or overly long roots and keep them moist until planting. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root system, but only deep enough so the tree does not sit too low.
Positioning the tree correctly requires ensuring the graft union, visible as a slight bulge on the lower trunk, remains two to three inches above the finished soil line. Burying this union may cause the scion to root, negating the rootstock’s benefits, which often control tree size. Backfill the hole with the original soil, gently tamping the layers to eliminate air pockets around the roots.
After planting, deep watering is required to settle the soil. Apply a layer of organic mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. For unbranched saplings, a heading cut is recommended, reducing the top growth to approximately 40 to 44 inches above the ground. This initial pruning helps balance the root loss from digging and encourages the formation of strong, lower scaffold branches.
Ongoing Maintenance and Structural Training
Long-term care involves providing consistent moisture to prevent fruit splitting as the fruit ripens. Regular, deep watering throughout the growing season is necessary, but avoid over-saturation because cherry roots are sensitive to waterlogging. Fertilization should begin in the second year after planting, typically in early spring before bud break, using a balanced fertilizer.
Structural training directs the tree’s growth to maximize light exposure and air circulation within the canopy. Sweet cherries, which naturally grow upright, are often trained to a modified central leader system. This system maintains a dominant central trunk with tiered lateral branches, creating a strong structure that supports a large crop load.
Sour cherry varieties are traditionally trained to an open vase system, where the central leader is removed to create a bowl-shaped canopy. This open center allows sunlight to penetrate all parts of the tree, benefiting fruit set. Training begins by selecting three to five main scaffold branches with wide angles to the trunk to form the tree’s permanent structure.
To minimize disease risk, routine pruning should be performed immediately after the fruit harvest during the summer months. Pruning in late fall or winter leaves open wounds vulnerable to infection by pathogens, such as the bacteria that cause canker. Summer pruning focuses on removing dead, damaged, or crossing branches and thinning dense areas to maintain structure and air flow.
Protecting Against Common Pests and Diseases
Cherry trees are susceptible to specific pests and pathogens that require monitoring. The cherry fruit fly (Rhagoletis cingulata) is a serious pest; the adult lays eggs under the skin of ripening fruit, and the larvae feed inside. Control involves applying approved insecticides before eggs are laid, or using yellow sticky traps to monitor adult populations.
Black cherry aphids (Myzus cerasi) suck sap from new shoots, causing foliage to curl and distort. Early infestations can be managed with applications of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, which smothers the insects. Encouraging natural predators, such as ladybugs, also helps control aphid populations.
Brown rot, caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola, attacks blossoms, shoots, and fruit, particularly in warm, wet conditions. Symptoms include withered blossoms and fruit that develops a soft brown decay, often covered with gray-brown spores. Sanitation is a primary defense, requiring the removal and destruction of all infected plant material, including mummified fruit left on the tree or ground.
Cherry leaf spot (Blumeriella jaapii) is a fungal disease that causes small spots on leaves, leading to premature defoliation and weakening the tree. Raking and destroying fallen leaves reduces the disease inoculum overwintering near the tree. Applying preventative fungicide sprays, often timed around petal fall, is a common strategy to protect against both leaf spot and brown rot.