Growing a cherry tree from a simple seed, often called a pit, offers a rewarding, long-term gardening endeavor. This process transforms a small casing into a mature, fruit-bearing plant, though it demands considerable patience and adherence to natural growth cycles. Starting from seed requires carefully mimicking the environmental cues the seed needs to break its deep dormancy. Successful germination involves understanding distinct biological phases that simulate a full seasonal cycle.
Preparing the Seed for Planting
The initial stage involves meticulously cleaning the cherry pit immediately after consumption to remove all traces of fruit pulp. The fleshy material surrounding the seed contains natural germination inhibitors that prevent the seed from sprouting while still inside the fruit. Using a gentle scrubbing method under running water ensures these inhibitory compounds are completely washed away.
Once cleaned, the pit requires a brief period of air-drying, typically for two or three days, to prevent mold growth during the subsequent stratification process. Spreading the pits on a paper towel in a cool, dry location is sufficient for this purpose. This prepares the clean, viable seed for the required cold treatment.
Most commercially available sweet cherry varieties, like ‘Bing’ or ‘Rainier,’ are hybrids or grafted cultivars. Seeds saved from these fruits will rarely produce a tree identical to the parent, a phenomenon known as not growing “true to type.” The resulting fruit may be smaller, taste different, or the tree might not bear fruit for many years. This manages expectations for the home grower.
The Essential Stratification Process
Before a cherry seed can sprout, it must undergo a period of cold, moist conditioning called stratification, which simulates the conditions of winter. This process is necessary to break the seed’s deep internal dormancy, a protective mechanism common in temperate fruit species. The seed requires sustained exposure to low temperatures to deplete dormancy-inducing hormones and activate growth enzymes.
To begin the cold treatment, place the clean, dried pits in a sterile, moisture-retaining medium. A mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or vermiculite works well, as these materials hold water without becoming saturated. Alternatively, a slightly dampened paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag can serve the same function. The goal is to provide a consistently moist environment without encouraging fungal growth.
The prepared container must then be moved to an environment where the temperature remains consistently low, ideally between 35 and 41 degrees Fahrenheit (1.5 to 5 degrees Celsius). The standard duration for this chilling period is approximately 10 to 12 weeks. Check the medium weekly to ensure it remains damp, adding a small amount of water if it begins to dry out. Any appearance of mold requires immediate action, usually by rinsing the seeds and placing them in fresh medium. Once the required chilling hours are complete, the seeds are ready to be transitioned to their germination environment.
Sowing and Initial Germination Care
Following the necessary cold period, the stratified seeds are ready to be transferred into a suitable growing container to encourage sprouting. Selecting a small starter pot, about four to six inches deep, provides adequate space for initial root development. The planting medium should be light and well-draining to prevent waterlogging.
Sow the cherry pit shallowly, about a half-inch to three-quarters of an inch deep, and then lightly cover it with the soil mix. Planting the seed too deeply can deplete its energy reserves before the shoot can break the surface. Place the pot in a warm environment, ideally maintaining a temperature around 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 24 degrees Celsius). This triggers the final stage of germination.
Consistent moisture is necessary at this stage to swell the seed coat and allow the embryonic root to emerge. The soil should remain damp, similar to a wrung-out sponge, but never soaking wet. A strong light source is needed for photosynthesis once the sprout appears. Placing the pot under a dedicated grow light for 14 to 16 hours daily is effective.
Within a few weeks, a small sprout should emerge from the soil surface, marking the successful completion of germination. Once the seedling develops its first set of true leaves, it requires slightly less water but the same high-intensity light. The seedling must be allowed to grow indoors until it has achieved a height of several inches and developed a robust set of leaves.
Transplanting and Long-Term Tree Establishment
Before the young cherry seedling can be moved permanently outdoors, it must undergo a gradual conditioning process known as hardening off. This procedure slowly acclimatizes the plant to harsher external elements like direct sunlight, wind, and fluctuating temperatures. Start by placing the pot outdoors in a sheltered, shaded location for just one hour a day. Increase the duration and exposure over a two-week period to minimize transplant shock.
Selecting the final planting location is a long-term decision that requires careful consideration. Cherry trees thrive in full sun, meaning they need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth. The soil must be deep, fertile, and highly well-draining, as cherry roots are susceptible to root rot. Plant the seedling at the same depth it was growing in the pot to ensure the root collar remains above the soil line.
The first year after transplanting is a defining period for establishment, requiring diligent attention to moisture levels. Newly planted trees rely entirely on the gardener for water, especially during dry spells. Deep watering every seven to ten days encourages the roots to grow downward. Protection is also necessary; use a wire mesh cylinder around the trunk as a preventative measure against pests like rabbits or voles.