The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) offers a spectacular display of large, trumpet-shaped flowers that many growers wish to experience every year. Achieving a repeat performance requires carefully mimicking its native tropical cycle of active growth, rest, and reawakening. This precise horticultural routine resets the bulb’s internal clock. The success of the next bloom cycle depends entirely on the specific care provided immediately following the initial flowering period.
Preparing the Bulb for Rest (Post-Bloom Care)
Once the vibrant Amaryllis flowers fade, the immediate priority is to prevent the plant from forming seeds, which would deplete the bulb’s stored energy reserves. The spent flower heads should be clipped off immediately, but the main flower stalk must be left intact until it begins to yellow and soften naturally. This hollow stalk conducts photosynthesis, returning valuable carbohydrates to the bulb before it is cut back to about an inch above the neck.
The long, strap-like foliage is the power source for the next bloom and must remain on the plant. These leaves generate the food stored within the bulb that fuels the next season’s flowers. Move the potted bulb to a location receiving maximum available sunlight, ideally a south-facing window, or outdoors once the danger of frost has passed.
Throughout spring and summer, treat the plant like any actively growing houseplant, providing consistent water and regular feeding. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) every two to four weeks to ensure the bulb receives necessary nutrients. This active growth phase, which lasts for several months, is the foundation for the subsequent bloom, as only a large, well-nourished bulb can produce a flower spike.
Forcing the Dormancy Period
Inducing a period of dormancy resets the Amaryllis’s flowering cycle, signaling to the bulb that it is time to prepare a new flower bud. This process begins in late summer, typically around September, by completely withholding water and ceasing all fertilization. The lack of moisture and nutrients forces the plant to conclude its active growth phase.
As the soil dries, the foliage will naturally yellow and wither, indicating the bulb is drawing stored energy from the leaves. Once the leaves are completely brown and dry, trim them back to within one or two inches of the bulb’s neck. The potted bulb must then be moved to a cool, dark, and dry environment.
The ideal resting temperature for this forced dormancy is consistently between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, such as an unheated basement or cool closet. This cooler temperature triggers the physiological changes necessary for flower bud formation. The resting period must last for a minimum of eight to ten weeks, with twelve weeks being a common recommendation to ensure the bulb has fully rested.
Triggering the New Bloom Cycle
After the required rest period of at least eight weeks, the bulb is ready to be reawakened. Plan the timing backward from the desired bloom date, as flowering typically takes four to eight weeks after reawakening. If the bulb has not been repotted in two to three years, refresh the soil now, ensuring the top third of the bulb remains exposed above the soil line.
To break dormancy, move the pot to a warm location (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) with bright, indirect light. This shift from cool to warm signals the bulb to begin new growth. Give the soil a single, thorough initial watering to moisten the entire potting medium and encourage root activity.
Allow the soil to dry out almost completely before watering again. Maintain this sparse watering schedule until the first signs of green growth emerge, often the flower spike appearing before the leaves. Once the flower spike is clearly visible and growing rapidly, resume regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist.
Addressing Common Re-Blooming Issues
Failure to re-bloom often stems from insufficient energy reserves or a disrupted rest cycle. The most common cause is an active growth phase that did not last long enough or lacked adequate light and fertilization during spring and summer. If the bulb did not have several months to replenish food stores, it will lack the energy to produce a flower spike, resulting only in leaves.
Another frequent problem is an insufficient dormancy period, either because the rest was too short or the storage temperature was too high. The bulb requires the specific eight-to-ten-week window in the 50 to 55 degree Fahrenheit range to properly set flower buds. A rest period that is too warm encourages the bulb to produce leaves prematurely instead of a bloom spike.
Planting depth can also inhibit flowering. Amaryllis bulbs prefer to be planted with their neck and a substantial portion of the bulb exposed above the soil surface. Planting the bulb too deeply may result in a failure to bloom. Finally, excessive application of nitrogen-heavy fertilizer during active growth can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flower development.