The appearance of small, quarter-sized holes across a lawn or garden signals that local squirrels are at work. These small mammals are driven by natural behaviors that conflict with a maintained yard, resulting in damaged flower bulbs, disturbed planters, and ruined turf. Understanding the motivation behind the digging is the first step toward effectively guiding these animals away from vulnerable areas.
Why Squirrels Dig in Residential Areas
Squirrels are driven to dig for two reasons: caching and foraging for food. The behavior known as “scatter hoarding” involves the squirrel burying nuts, seeds, and acorns in numerous shallow holes throughout the yard to store food for later consumption. These temporary caches are typically only one to two inches deep, just large enough to stash a single item before being covered with soil.
Foraging involves searching for protein-rich food sources. This often means digging for subterranean insects like beetle larvae or European crane fly grubs that live just beneath the soil surface. Squirrels also unearth newly planted flower bulbs, mistaking them for an easy, high-calorie food source. Understanding which behavior is causing the issue helps a homeowner select the most targeted deterrent method.
Implementing Physical Deterrents
Physical barriers provide a direct solution by blocking access to the soil, especially in concentrated areas like flower beds and planters. For new plantings, such as spring bulbs, galvanized wire mesh or chicken wire can be installed over the soil surface. A mesh with half-inch openings is small enough to deter digging while still allowing water and sunlight to pass through.
In garden beds, this wire barrier should be laid flat across the soil and secured at the edges, then lightly covered with mulch or soil to conceal it. For raised garden beds or large containers, a similar wire mesh can be placed at the bottom before adding soil. This prevents squirrels from digging down to access buried roots or bulbs. Planters can also be protected by covering the exposed soil with decorative stones or gravel, which makes digging physically difficult.
To protect a vegetable patch or garden perimeter, fencing must prevent burrowing underneath. A fence should extend at least a few inches into the ground, with the bottom edge bent outward in an “L” shape. This buried horizontal flange, extending approximately six to twelve inches outward, acts as a deterrent squirrels encounter before they can dig under the vertical fence line.
Using Non-Lethal Repellents and Habitat Modification
Modifying the environment to make it less appealing is a long-term strategy that combines deterrents with removing primary food sources. Taste-based repellents containing capsaicin, the compound that gives chili peppers their heat, are effective because squirrels find the spicy residue irritating. These products can be applied to bulbs or sprinkled on the soil, but they require consistent reapplication after rain or heavy watering to maintain potency.
Scent-based deterrents exploit the squirrel’s sensitive sense of smell, using odors they naturally avoid. White vinegar, peppermint oil, or commercial granular products containing the scent of predator urine can be scattered around vulnerable areas. Used coffee grounds also emit a strong scent that many squirrels dislike and can be integrated into the soil around plants as a deterrent and soil amendment.
Habitat modification focuses on eliminating the primary attractants. Fallen nuts, berries, or fruit from nearby trees should be raked up and removed promptly to reduce the incentive for caching behavior. Bird feeders are a significant attractant, and switching to a squirrel-proof feeder or temporarily removing the feeder entirely can reduce activity. If grub foraging is the issue, treating the lawn for these larvae can remove the secondary food source that encourages digging.
When DIY Solutions Are Not Enough
When persistent digging continues despite the use of physical barriers and repellents, a homeowner may consider live trapping, but this approach involves legal hurdles. Relocating live-trapped squirrels is heavily regulated and often illegal without a specific permit from state or local wildlife agencies. This is because relocation can spread disease or result in a high mortality rate for the released animal, which may struggle to establish itself in unfamiliar territory.
In cases of severe property damage or a persistent infestation, the most appropriate step is to contact a licensed professional wildlife control operator. These specialists possess the necessary permits and expertise to handle trapping and removal in compliance with local regulations. They can also inspect the home’s exterior for potential entry points, as exterior digging can be a precursor to squirrels attempting to gain access to attics or crawlspaces for nesting.