A volunteer tree is an unsolicited seedling that grows in an undesirable location. These trees arise from seeds dispersed by wind, water, or animals, sprouting in places like fence lines, gutter seams, cracks in pavement, or close to building foundations. Species known for prolifically establishing themselves as volunteers include white mulberry, black locust, and the invasive tree-of-heaven. Prompt removal is advisable because even small seedlings can develop extensive root systems, threatening infrastructure and making later extraction significantly more difficult.
Manual Removal Techniques for Seedlings and Small Saplings
The most straightforward method for eliminating volunteer trees that are still small, typically less than one inch in diameter, is physical removal. Hand-pulling is highly effective, especially when the soil is wet, which minimizes the resistance of the root system. Ensure the complete extraction of the taproot, as any root fragments left behind can lead to the tree re-sprouting.
For slightly larger seedlings or those with a more established root structure, specialized weeding tools, such as root jacks or leverage bars, can provide the necessary mechanical advantage. These devices function as a fulcrum, allowing the user to grip the sapling near the soil line and pull the root system straight out of the ground. Cutting the sapling off at the soil line without removing the root is not recommended, as this can stimulate vigorous re-sprouting from the remaining root crown.
If the taproot proves too difficult to pull, a narrow shovel or trowel should be used to carefully dig around the base of the sapling, exposing the root collar. Once the root system is loosened and separated from the surrounding soil, the entire plant can be lifted out intact. This method manages small volunteer trees before they develop woody tissue.
Chemical Strategies for Established Volunteer Trees
When a volunteer tree has grown too large for manual extraction, chemical control becomes necessary to prevent re-sprouting. The most common and targeted approach involves applying a concentrated systemic herbicide directly to the tree’s vascular system.
To execute this, the tree is first cut down as close to the ground as possible, leaving a level stump. Immediately following the cut—ideally within five minutes—a concentrated herbicide is applied to the freshly exposed wood. This immediate application is necessary because the tree quickly begins to seal off the cut surface, preventing absorption.
The herbicide should be focused on the cambium layer, the thin ring of living tissue located just beneath the bark. Since the cambium transports nutrients and water, treating this outer ring ensures the chemical moves down into the root system to kill the plant. Herbicides like glyphosate or triclopyr, rated for woody plants, are highly effective for this purpose.
Another method for larger, still-standing trees is the hack-and-squirt technique, which involves making downward cuts into the trunk with a hatchet and immediately squirting concentrated herbicide into the wound. Regardless of the application method, personal protective equipment (PPE) must be worn, and all herbicide product labels should be strictly followed.
Stump and Root Eradication
After the initial chemical treatment kills the tree, the remaining stump and root system must be managed to prevent future suckering and mitigate potential damage to nearby structures. Many species, such as poplar and maple, possess significant stored energy reserves and will send up new shoots, or suckers, from the roots if the stump is left untreated.
One effective method involves drilling multiple holes into the top surface of the stump, using a drill bit at least a half-inch in diameter and several inches deep. These holes are then filled with concentrated herbicide or a chemical stump remover, which often contains potassium nitrate. The chemical works by accelerating the decay process and helping to translocate the herbicide deeper into the root system.
For quicker removal, stump grinding is a mechanical option that physically reduces the stump to wood chips several inches below ground level. This method eliminates the physical hazard and prevents suckering by removing the root crown.
Managing Remaining Roots
Large roots extending far from the stump may still need to be manually dug out or treated. Allowing woody roots to remain near foundations, driveways, or plumbing can lead to future structural issues as the roots expand or decay.
Maintenance and Prevention Strategies
Diligent maintenance and preventative measures are key to eliminating volunteer trees long-term. Regular monitoring of the landscape allows for the timely removal of new seedlings before they establish a deep taproot, minimizing the need for more aggressive methods. Addressing a new sprout immediately is significantly easier than tackling a one-year-old sapling.
Creating a physical barrier over the soil is highly effective at suppressing seed germination. A thick layer of organic mulch, maintained at a depth of three to four inches, inhibits sunlight from reaching the soil, which is necessary for many seeds to sprout. Landscape fabric also acts as a physical barrier that prevents seeds from germinating in the soil underneath.
For areas like gravel driveways or patios where trees frequently volunteer, applying a pre-emergent herbicide can prevent seeds from sprouting. For areas adjacent to foundations or underground utilities, installing physical root barriers can prevent surviving or future roots from causing structural damage. These proactive steps ensure removal efforts lead to a sustained, tree-free outcome.