Tree sprouts, often called suckers, are vigorous new shoots originating from dormant buds on a tree’s root system or the base of its trunk. These shoots represent the tree’s natural response to stress, injury, or the removal of its main canopy. They can emerge from the ground, sometimes several feet away from the parent tree, or directly from a remaining stump. This growth is the plant’s attempt to survive and restore photosynthetic capacity lost due to damage or cutting.
Non-Chemical Removal Methods
Immediate physical removal provides a quick, non-toxic way to clear sprouts, though it is often a temporary measure. Small, young sprouts, especially those less than a foot tall, can be managed by hand-pulling or digging them out. When hand-pulling, try to remove the sprout from its point of origin on the root to discourage immediate regrowth.
For sprouts widespread across a lawn, regular mowing will keep them suppressed below the height of the grass. Simply cutting the shoots off at ground level often fails to solve the underlying problem. The tree’s root system interprets the removal of above-ground growth as damage, triggering a hormonal response that stimulates dormant root buds. Consequently, repeated cutting can lead to the production of an even greater number of sprouts.
Targeted Chemical Treatments
To disrupt the root system driving continuous sprouting, a systemic herbicide can be applied directly to the source. Systemic chemicals, such as those containing glyphosate or triclopyr, are absorbed by the plant tissue and translocated down into the roots. This approach kills the entire root system, eliminating the energy source that fuels new growth.
The most reliable technique is the “cut-stump” method, used when sprouts originate from a main stump or large root section. Immediately after cutting the sprout or stump surface, a concentrated herbicide solution must be painted or brushed onto the fresh wood. Timing is important because the plant’s vascular system seals off the cut area rapidly, hindering chemical uptake.
Application should focus specifically on the cambium layer, the thin, live tissue ring just inside the bark. This sapwood ring transports nutrients downward to the roots, ensuring the herbicide reaches the target. For small-diameter sprouts, treat the entire cross-section of the freshly cut stem.
Use caution when applying these products, as systemic herbicides can travel through root grafts to nearby desirable trees. To protect surrounding vegetation, avoid overspray and only use the amount necessary to lightly coat the cut surface without runoff. Always follow the product label instructions for dilution rates and application timing.
Long-Term Prevention Strategies
The only way to achieve a permanent solution is to eliminate the living root system generating the sprouts. Stump grinding is the most efficient method, mechanically shredding the stump and surrounding root flare several inches below the soil line. Removing this tissue cuts off the central energy reserve, causing remaining root fragments to die out.
A slower approach is the chemical decomposition of the stump, sometimes called “stump poisoning.” This involves drilling deep holes into the remaining stump and filling them with a product that accelerates natural decay. While this does not remove the stump immediately, it helps break down the wood and starves the associated root system.
For sprouts originating from a neighbor’s tree or a distant root network, installing a physical root barrier can be an effective long-term defense. These barriers, typically rigid plastic or metal, are placed vertically in a trench to redirect root growth away from your yard. Selecting tree varieties that are not prone to producing suckers is the ultimate preventative measure when planting new trees.