Tree shoots, also known as suckers, represent an aggressive form of growth originating from the root system or the base of the parent tree’s trunk. These growths are essentially clones of the original tree, appearing in the lawn often far from the main trunk. These shoots actively draw water and nutrients away from both the grass and the main tree. Effectively managing this persistent issue requires a clear understanding of the underlying biology and the deployment of specific, targeted removal techniques.
Understanding Why Shoots Appear
Tree shoots emerge as a biological response to stress or damage, driven by the tree’s natural hormonal balance. These growths fall into two main categories: root suckers and basal sprouts. Root suckers originate from the lateral root system, sometimes appearing many feet away from the tree trunk, often as a reaction to physical root injury caused by mowing, digging, or construction disturbance. The damage disrupts the flow of auxin, a growth-regulating hormone, causing dormant buds along the roots to activate. Basal sprouts emerge directly from the root collar or the base of the trunk, frequently appearing after the main trunk has been injured or severely pruned. Certain species, like poplars, sumac, fruit trees, and lilacs, are genetically predisposed to this behavior.
Immediate Mechanical Removal Methods
The most immediate method for addressing tree shoots involves physical removal, though its effectiveness depends on technique. Simply mowing over the shoots only provides a temporary visual fix, as cutting the above-ground foliage stimulates the root system to produce an even greater number of new shoots. This action encourages vigorous regrowth from the dormant buds below the soil line.
Targeted Cutting
A more effective mechanical approach requires tracing the shoot back to its point of origin. Shoots must be severed as close to this source as possible, ideally by cutting slightly below the soil line to remove the point where the growth hormone is concentrated. Using sharp, clean shears or loppers to make a smooth cut prevents jagged wounds that can encourage fungal entry into the parent root system. Hand-pulling is generally counterproductive because it often tears the shoot above the root surface, leaving residual tissue ready to re-sprout quickly.
Basal Sprout Removal
When dealing with basal sprouts, the cut needs to be flush with the trunk to prevent a small stub from remaining, which would rapidly initiate new growth. Consistency is paramount, as mechanical removal must be repeated regularly to deplete the energy reserves stored in the root system over time.
Using Targeted Chemical Controls
For persistent or widespread suckering, a targeted chemical approach using systemic herbicides provides a more lasting solution by killing the root tissue. Non-selective systemic herbicides, typically containing glyphosate, are effective because they are absorbed by the plant and translocated throughout its vascular system to the roots. Indiscriminate spraying onto the lawn or surrounding foliage must be avoided, as these chemicals will kill any plant tissue they contact.
The Cut and Paint Technique
The most precise application method is known as the “cut and paint” technique, which ensures the herbicide is delivered directly to the root system. The shoot must be cut cleanly with shears, leaving a fresh, exposed wound. Immediately following the cut, a concentrated solution of the systemic herbicide is painted onto the fresh wound using a small brush or a foam applicator. Timing is important, as the application should occur within seconds of the cut to maximize absorption before the plant tissue seals itself. The concentrated chemical then travels down the shoot’s vascular system into the parent root, disrupting the hormonal signals and preventing further sprout formation. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific concentration and safety precautions, wearing appropriate protective gear.
Long-Term Prevention Strategies
Minimizing future shoot outbreaks involves proactive measures aimed at protecting the tree roots and altering the environment around the tree. The installation of physical root barriers, constructed from rigid plastic or metal sheeting, must be buried vertically around the tree’s drip line to a depth of at least 18 to 24 inches.
Maintenance Adjustments
Adjusting lawn maintenance practices significantly reduces the stress that triggers suckering behavior in trees. Avoiding deep tilling, aggressive edging, or vertical mowing near the tree’s root zone prevents the physical damage that stimulates dormant root buds. Maintaining a small, mulched buffer area around the trunk instead of turf can also help protect the root crown from mechanical injury.
Species Selection
When planting new trees, selecting species and cultivars that are known to be non-suckering can prevent this issue entirely. Choosing grafted varieties where the rootstock is not prone to suckering, or opting for naturally less aggressive species, represents a simple preventative measure.