Unwanted tree saplings, young trees typically under a few inches in diameter, often appear in lawns, garden beds, or along fence lines. These volunteer trees sprout from wind-blown seeds or are spread by animals, quickly establishing deep root structures that compete with desired vegetation. Dealing with this unwanted growth early simplifies the removal process. The most effective approach involves assessing the sapling’s size and choosing a technique that neutralizes the entire root system, preventing future re-sprouting.
Removing New Growth By Hand
Manual Extraction
The most direct method for removing young tree growth involves manual extraction. This technique is best suited for the smallest saplings, usually those with a trunk diameter less than two inches, before their root systems become extensive. Immediate action is helpful because younger saplings have less stored energy, reducing the potential for regrowth after removal.
Removing the Taproot
The primary goal of manual removal is the complete extraction of the taproot, the main central root that grows straight down. If this root remains in the soil, the sapling often regenerates, resulting in a persistent shoot or sucker. To maximize the chance of a full removal, the ground should be moist, which helps loosen the soil particles around the root structure.
Digging Technique
Start by digging a circular trench around the sapling’s base using a hand trowel, garden fork, or specialized weed-popper tool. The trench should extend a few inches out from the trunk and go deep enough to expose the upper portion of the taproot. Once the root crown is visible, gently rock the sapling back and forth while applying steady, upward pressure to pull the entire root system from the ground.
If the sapling is slightly larger or the root breaks off, continue digging to retrieve the remaining root fragment. Any part of the root left behind can trigger a response to produce new shoots. Removing all visible root material physically starves the plant of its ability to regrow, making this manual method a permanent solution for small saplings.
Smothering Persistent Saplings
The Smothering Technique
Larger saplings or those with resilient root systems require a more sustained approach than hand-pulling. The natural “cut and cover” or smothering technique is highly effective for established plants. This process works by starving the root system of sunlight and oxygen, the two primary resources needed for survival.
Application
First, cut the sapling down to a low stump, ideally as close to the soil line as possible. Cover the remaining stump and surrounding area completely with a thick, opaque material to block all light. Materials such as heavy black plastic sheeting, thick layers of newspaper, or large pieces of cardboard work well for this purpose.
Securing and Deprivation
Secure the covering to the ground using bricks, rocks, or soil to prevent any light from reaching the stump. The lack of sunlight prevents photosynthesis, which the plant uses to create energy for survival and regrowth. Any new shoots attempting to emerge are blocked from reaching the light, forcing them to deplete the stored energy reserves in the root system.
Timeframe
This deprivation process requires patience and time, often needing to remain in place for one full growing season to fully exhaust the root ball. For tenacious species, the material may need to stay down for a year or more. Without the ability to photosynthesize, the plant’s resources are gradually depleted until the entire root system dies naturally.
Preventing Future Sapling Growth
Using Organic Mulch
Long-term prevention involves creating an inhospitable environment for seed germination. The most effective natural strategy is applying a deep layer of organic mulch across vulnerable areas, such as garden beds. Mulch works by physically creating a barrier that blocks sunlight from reaching the soil surface where seeds settle.
Mulch Application Depth
To prevent new seeds from sprouting, maintain a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, at a depth of two to four inches. This thickness inhibits the germination of tree seeds and suppresses weeds, as the seeds cannot access the light needed for growth. Spread the mulch evenly and avoid piling the material against the trunk of a desired tree.
Mulch Maintenance
Piling mulch against a tree’s trunk can trap moisture and encourage disease, so a small ring of soil should remain visible around the base of any existing tree. As the organic mulch slowly breaks down, it improves soil structure and fertility. Replenishing the mulch annually helps maintain the necessary thickness for continuous coverage.
Alternative Prevention
Another preventative measure is to establish dense groundcovers in areas prone to sapling invasion. Low-growing, vigorous plants create a living barrier that competes with tree seeds for light, water, and nutrients, successfully suppressing their ability to take hold. If a nearby mature tree is the known source of the seeds, its removal eliminates the initial supply of new sapling growth.