The discovery of termites on your property can be alarming, as these pests are primarily known for the damage they cause inside a home. Finding them in your lawn is a common starting point for an infestation, especially with subterranean species that live in the soil. These insects are cellulose-feeders that forage continuously. Termites in the grass are a symptom of a larger, underground colony. Effective management requires eliminating the existing population and modifying the landscape to prevent future colonization, thereby protecting your home’s structure.
Confirming the Pest: Identifying Termites in Turf
Accurate identification is necessary because many common lawn insects are mistaken for termites. The most definitive sign of subterranean termites in your turf is the presence of mud tubes, which are pencil-sized tunnels made of soil and saliva. These tubes serve as protected highways, shielding the soft-bodied termites from dry air and predators as they travel between the subterranean nest and their food source. You may find these tubes emerging directly from the soil, near tree stumps, or along the foundation of your home.
Another key indicator is the appearance of damaged or dead patches of grass that cannot be explained by drought or disease. Certain termite species, sometimes called agricultural termites, can feed on grass roots and dead vegetation, causing turf to thin or yellow. If you encounter winged insects swarming from the ground, you can distinguish termite swarmers from flying ants by examining their bodies. Termites have a thick, uniform waist, straight antennae, and two sets of wings that are equal in size and length. In contrast, flying ants have a distinctly pinched waist, elbowed antennae, and their front wings are noticeably longer than their hind wings.
Immediate DIY Treatments for Eradication
Once you have positively identified termites, several immediate do-it-yourself treatments can target the active population in the lawn. Granular termite products are a popular option, as they contain non-repellent termiticides, such as imidacloprid, that termites cannot detect. These granules are spread over the infested area and then lightly watered into the soil to create a treated zone. Termites pass through this zone, picking up the slow-acting chemical which they then transfer to other colony members through contact.
Another method involves the use of entomopathogenic nematodes, which are microscopic, beneficial worms that act as a biological control. Species like Heterorhabditis bacteriophora are commercially available and are mixed with water, then applied to the soil using a hose-end sprayer or watering can. These nematodes actively seek out and parasitizes termites, releasing symbiotic bacteria that kill the host within a few days.
For a more localized approach, you can temporarily flood a known nest or mud tube entrance with water, which can kill some termites and cause the colony to relocate due to the excessive moisture. You can also use the cellulose-rich nature of cardboard as a simple trap to draw foraging termites out of the soil. Wetting a piece of cardboard and placing it over the area attracts termites searching for a food source and moisture. Once a significant number of termites are feeding on the cardboard, they can be treated directly with a contact killer like a borate solution or simply removed and destroyed. Liquid termiticides can also be applied as a spot treatment directly to active mud tubes or in a small trench dug around a localized infestation in the yard.
Long-Term Lawn Management and Prevention
The long-term strategy for keeping termites out of your turf involves cultural control, which means making the lawn environment permanently less hospitable. Subterranean termites require constant moisture to survive outside their protective tunnels, so managing drainage is paramount. Ensure the soil around your foundation is properly graded to slope water away from the structure, ideally at a 5% grade, to prevent pooling. Cleaning and maintaining gutters and downspouts is also important, as clogged systems can cause water to saturate the soil immediately next to the house.
Eliminating cellulose debris is another major preventative action, as this material serves as the termites’ primary food source. All wood-to-soil contact should be removed, including old form boards left after construction, dead tree stumps, and scrap lumber. Firewood should be stored elevated off the ground and placed at least 20 feet away from the home’s foundation.
Mulch management is especially important near the perimeter of the house, as wood mulch retains moisture and provides cover for termites. Maintain a clear, inspection zone of bare soil or inorganic material like gravel for 6 to 12 inches immediately next to the foundation. If you use organic mulch elsewhere, keep the depth to two to three inches and ensure it is not piled up against the siding or wooden elements of the house.
Assessing Structural Risk and Professional Intervention
The primary concern with lawn termites is their potential to migrate from the yard into the wooden structure of your home. Subterranean species, which are the most common lawn pests, establish colonies in the soil and use the home’s foundation as a pathway to access wood. The appearance of mud tubes on the concrete foundation or basement walls is a definite sign that the colony is actively foraging toward the structure. Finding discarded swarmer wings inside the house, particularly near windowsills or light fixtures, is also a strong indicator that a new colony is attempting to establish itself within the walls.
If you find evidence of termites on the foundation, observe persistent activity after DIY treatment, or notice signs of internal damage, professional intervention is necessary. Professionals have access to highly effective, non-repellent termiticides that create a comprehensive barrier around the structure. Unlike many over-the-counter products, these commercial-grade treatments are designed to be undetectable by the termites, allowing them to pass through the treated zone and carry the chemical back to the colony for complete elimination. A licensed pest control expert can use specialized equipment to inject termiticide deep into the soil or under concrete slabs, ensuring the protective barrier is continuous and long-lasting.