Squirrels and chipmunks are common in urban and suburban environments, but they can quickly become destructive. As rodents, their continuously growing incisor teeth compel them to chew on various materials, leading to significant property damage. Squirrels often gnaw on electrical wiring, creating fire hazards, and damage insulation and structural wood within attics and walls. Chipmunks, while smaller, cause issues primarily through extensive burrowing, which can undermine the structural integrity of foundations, patios, and retaining walls.
Securing the Area: Exclusion and Habitat Modification
The most effective long-term strategy for managing these animals is preventing their access to shelter and food sources. Exclusion involves physically blocking all potential entry points into a structure using durable materials that rodents cannot chew through. For squirrels, seal gaps around the roofline, repair damaged fascia boards, and secure chimneys with tight-fitting metal caps. Cover all vents, including dryer exhaust vents, with heavy-duty wire mesh or hardware cloth. Use a quarter-inch mesh size for chipmunks and a half-inch mesh for squirrels.
Chipmunks typically burrow near the ground, requiring attention to foundation gaps, spaces beneath porches, and retaining walls. Deter burrowing by burying galvanized hardware cloth one foot deep around foundations and extending it outward at a ninety-degree angle.
Removing accessible food is equally important, as readily available sustenance invites infestation. Habitat modification includes securing all garbage bins with locking lids and ensuring pet food is never left outdoors. Bird feeders should be removed entirely or replaced with specialized squirrel-proof models.
If you maintain a garden, promptly harvest fruits, nuts, and vegetables as soon as they ripen to eliminate a primary food source. Trim all tree branches back at least ten feet from the roofline of your home to cut off a common access bridge for squirrels. Eliminating debris piles, overgrown shrubs, and stacked firewood near the home also removes favored hiding and nesting spots.
Non-Lethal Methods: Sensory Deterrents and Repellents
When physical exclusion is impractical, repellents can deter animals from specific areas. Repellents rely on strong scents or tastes that irritate the animals without causing physical harm. Capsaicin, the compound that makes chili peppers hot, is a common ingredient in commercial repellents, as squirrels find the spicy flavor unpleasant. Applying capsaicin-based sprays to garden plants, birdseed, or surfaces they are chewing can reduce activity.
Predator urine, such as that from foxes or coyotes, is another widely used deterrent, triggering an instinctive fear response. This type of repellent is often applied as a liquid or granule around the perimeter of the protected area. Strong essential oils, including peppermint, cinnamon, and garlic, are also disliked and can be applied in high-traffic areas on cotton balls or as a diluted spray.
The effectiveness of sensory deterrents is often temporary, as animals can become habituated to the constant smell or taste. Frequent reapplication is necessary, especially after rain, to maintain the barrier. Rotating different deterrent types, such as switching from capsaicin to predator urine, may prevent the pests from growing accustomed to a single method. Devices that emit high-frequency ultrasonic sounds are marketed as deterrents, but their effectiveness against squirrels and chipmunks is low and unreliable.
Active Removal: Trapping and Relocation Considerations
If exclusion and deterrence fail, active removal through trapping may be necessary. Live traps, such as small cage traps, are frequently used for both squirrels and chipmunks, allowing capture without injury. Effective bait includes nuts, seeds, peanut butter, or dried fruit, placed inside the trap to encourage full entry. Position traps along known travel routes, near burrow entrances for chipmunks, or at the base of trees for squirrels.
When an animal is caught, consider the legal and biological implications of relocation. In many jurisdictions, it is unlawful for an unlicensed individual to relocate trapped wildlife off their property. Moving an animal to a new area subjects it to severe stress, disrupts the existing ecosystem, and risks spreading diseases like rabies or parasites to new populations.
Releasing a trapped animal elsewhere simply shifts the problem or introduces a newcomer into an established territory, increasing conflict. Some states permit relocation within a specified, short distance on private land with permission. However, due to the high risk of mortality and disease spread, euthanasia may be the only legal option if the animal cannot be released immediately on-site. Before setting any trap, homeowners must consult their state’s wildlife agency for current regulations on trapping and disposal.
Knowing When to Hire Professional Help
Specific situations require contacting a licensed Wildlife Control Operator (WCO). Large-scale infestations, especially those involving multiple animals nesting inside inaccessible areas like wall voids or beneath concrete slabs, are best handled by professionals. A WCO has the specialized equipment and training to safely remove animals from difficult locations, such as high in an attic or deep within a chimney.
If you suspect a nesting mother and her young are present, particularly during spring and summer birthing seasons, a WCO’s expertise is required. Removing a mother without her dependent offspring is inhumane and can lead to the young dying inside the structure, causing odor issues and further damage. Professional operators are licensed and understand all regulations governing the capture and disposal of wildlife. They ensure the process is compliant with the law and often provide exclusion repairs to prevent future intrusions.