Spittlebugs, which are the immature stage of small insects known as froghoppers, are a common sight in gardens. They are most recognized by the characteristic white, frothy mass they produce on the stems and leaves of plants. This foamy substance is secreted by the insect as a protective shield while it feeds on the plant’s internal fluids. These pests can target a wide variety of plants, including ornamental grasses, roses, herbs, and strawberries. While the foam itself may be unsightly, it signals the presence of a sap-sucking insect that can potentially harm your plants. Understanding how to manage these pests starts with recognizing the signs of their presence and the specific damage they cause.
Identifying Spittlebugs and Understanding Their Damage
The most obvious sign of an infestation is the frothy, bubble-filled mass, known as spittle, typically found in leaf axils or on stems. Inside this protective foam, you will find the spittlebug nymphs, which are soft-bodied, elongated insects measuring up to a quarter-inch long. Nymphs often have conspicuous red eyes and may range in color from orange or yellow to green.
The adult form, the froghopper, is also about a quarter-inch long, often mottled gray or brown, and possesses large hind legs for jumping. Both the nymphs and adults feed by piercing the plant tissue and extracting the internal sap. This feeding action can result in damage such as stunted plant growth, distortion of leaves, and yellowing, though the harm is often minimal unless populations are very high. The foam serves a dual purpose, protecting the nymph from predators and preventing it from drying out as it feeds.
Physical and Water-Based Removal Methods
For managing small or early-stage spittlebug infestations, water-based methods offer an immediate solution. The simplest approach is to use a strong jet of water from a garden hose to dislodge the spittle and the nymphs beneath it. The force of the water washes the protective foam away and separates the insect from its food source.
Dislodged nymphs must expend energy to crawl back up the plant and recreate their foamy shelter, making them temporarily vulnerable to predators and desiccation. This method is highly effective and eliminates the need for chemical treatments. You may need to repeat this hosing process several times over a few days to ensure all newly developing nymphs are removed.
For plants with only a few patches of spittle, manual removal is a practical option. You can wipe the foam off the plant stems and leaves using a damp cloth or paper towel. Once the nymphs are exposed, they can be crushed or dropped into a bucket of soapy water for disposal. Physical removal is particularly useful for targeted spots where hosing might damage delicate flowers or young growth.
Applying Targeted Insecticidal Treatments
When physical removal is not sufficient to control a persistent infestation, topical treatments can be used, focusing on penetrating the protective foam. Low-impact, organic solutions, such as insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils like neem oil, are the preferred first line of defense. These products work primarily as contact killers, meaning the spray must directly cover the insect to be effective.
Insecticidal soaps contain potassium salts of fatty acids that disrupt the insect’s cell membranes, while horticultural oils primarily smother the pests. To ensure success, the application must be thorough, completely saturating the spittle mass to reach the nymph inside. Since these treatments have little to no residual effect once they dry, repeat applications may be necessary every four to seven days, following product label directions.
When using these sprays, apply them in the early morning or evening to minimize the risk of plant damage (phytotoxicity), especially when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit. For severe infestations where other methods have failed, stronger chemical insecticides may be considered as a last resort. However, the protective foam makes chemical control difficult, and these products should be applied with caution.
Cultural Practices to Prevent Reinfestation
Long-term management of spittlebugs involves modifying the garden environment to make it less hospitable.
- Maintain robust plant health through consistent, appropriate watering and fertilization. Avoid over-fertilizing with high-nitrogen products, which stimulate the lush, tender growth that sap-sucking pests often prefer.
- Practice rigorous weed control in and around garden beds, as spittlebugs frequently use weeds as host plants, reducing available breeding and feeding sites.
- Clean up leaf litter and reduce heavy thatch layers in lawns during the dormant season. Spittlebug eggs often overwinter in this debris, so removal eliminates potential egg-laying sites.
- Encourage natural predators. Wasps and big-headed flies parasitize spittlebug eggs and adults, while generalist predators like ladybugs and lacewings feed on exposed nymphs.
- Always inspect new plants thoroughly before introducing them into your garden to avoid inadvertently carrying in pests that could lead to a new infestation.