The snake plant, botanically known as Dracaena trifasciata and formerly Sansevieria trifasciata, is a common houseplant prized for its striking, upright foliage. This evergreen perennial is celebrated for its tolerance of neglect and its ability to thrive in a variety of indoor conditions. In warmer climates (USDA Hardiness Zones 10 through 12), it is often utilized outdoors in landscape beds and can become aggressively established. Once these plants root themselves in open ground, their extreme hardiness makes complete eradication a challenging and often lengthy process. This difficulty stems from the plant’s unique biological structure, which requires specific and persistent removal strategies.
Understanding Why Removal is Difficult
The primary reason Dracaena trifasciata is so difficult to remove is its robust, segmented underground stem system called rhizomes. These rhizomes function as the plant’s survival and spreading mechanism, storing water and nutrients that allow it to endure long periods of drought or disturbance. When the above-ground leaves are cut or damaged, the plant immediately draws on these reserves to generate new growth. These creeping rhizomes often form a dense, intertwined mat, sometimes just below the soil surface. The most problematic feature is the plant’s capacity for vegetative propagation, meaning any small fragment of a rhizome left in the soil can quickly sprout a new, independent plant. Consequently, incomplete removal of the underground network guarantees the snake plant’s swift return, often leading to a denser infestation than before the attempted removal.
Non-Chemical Manual Extraction
For smaller clumps or when chemical usage is a concern, manual extraction is the most targeted approach, though it requires meticulous effort. Begin by acquiring a sharp shovel, a digging fork, and a small hand trowel, as the root mass is extremely dense and tough. The initial step involves severing the rhizomes around the perimeter of the plant clump, digging a wide margin of 8 to 12 inches outside the outermost leaves. Work the digging fork deep into the soil to loosen the root mass, which helps prevent cutting the rhizomes into small, viable pieces.
Carefully lift the entire clump, making every effort to keep the root ball intact. Once the main mass is removed, the most critical phase is sifting through the remaining soil to locate and remove all broken rhizome segments. Use the hand trowel to systematically check the area where the plant was growing, looking for small, pale, underground runners. Even tiny, pea-sized pieces of rhizome can regenerate a new plant, necessitating a thorough inspection of the soil. For plants removed from containers, scrape the interior sides of the pot to ensure no root fragments remain before reusing the vessel.
Targeted Chemical Eradication
When dealing with large, entrenched infestations where manual digging is impractical, chemical treatment offers a more scalable solution. Snake plants have thick, waxy leaf cuticles, which naturally resist the absorption of most liquid herbicides sprayed directly onto the foliage. Therefore, a targeted application method is necessary to bypass this protective barrier and deliver the chemical directly to the plant’s vascular system.
The most effective method involves using a systemic herbicide containing the active ingredient glyphosate, applied directly to a fresh wound. Use a clean, sharp knife or pruner to cut a leaf or rhizome near the soil line. Immediately—within 15 to 30 seconds—paint the cut surface with a concentrated, undiluted glyphosate solution. This rapid application window is important because the plant seals the wound quickly, halting the movement of sap and preventing the herbicide from translocating to the roots. The chemical is then drawn down into the extensive rhizome system. Repeat applications will likely be necessary, as the plant’s large energy reserves in the rhizomes can resist a single treatment.
Disposal and Monitoring to Prevent Return
Proper disposal of the removed plant material is as important as the initial removal process to ensure the snake plant does not re-establish itself. The rhizomes and leaf fragments are highly regenerative and should never be placed in a standard compost pile, where they can survive and be spread later. The most secure disposal method is to place all plant debris, including the dug-up rhizomes and cut leaves, into thick, sealed plastic bags. These sealed bags should then be sent to a municipal landfill for disposal, or they can be solarized by placing them in a sunny location for several weeks. The intense heat generated inside the bag will effectively sterilize the plant material, ensuring no viable fragments remain.
If local regulations permit, thoroughly drying the material and then burning it is another way to achieve complete destruction of the regenerative parts. After the initial removal, a period of sustained monitoring is essential for long-term success. Routinely inspect the affected area for several months, particularly after rainfall, as missed rhizome pieces may begin to sprout new leaves. Catching these sprouts early allows for a quick follow-up treatment, such as spot-treating the new growth with a dab of concentrated glyphosate or simply digging out the small, newly formed root mass before it can expand.