Unwanted small trees, such as aggressive saplings or invasive species, can quickly become a nuisance in a managed landscape. Removing these woody plants requires addressing both the visible trunk and the extensive root system to prevent regrowth. This guide focuses on accessible, do-it-yourself techniques suitable for trees with trunk diameters generally less than 4 to 6 inches, offering both physical and chemical solutions.
Defining “Small” and Necessary Preparation
A tree is considered “small” for DIY removal if its trunk diameter at chest height is less than 4 to 6 inches, or if all branches can be safely managed from the ground. Trees exceeding this range often possess root systems too large for manual extraction, requiring professional equipment. For example, a 5-inch diameter tree’s root ball can extend up to four feet wide and two-and-a-half feet deep, setting a practical limit for manual labor.
Before digging begins, safety and planning are important. Essential personal protective equipment includes sturdy gloves, eye protection, and robust footwear to shield against sharp tools and flying debris. Necessary tools for removal include a sharp shovel, a mattock for chopping roots and breaking up soil, long-handled loppers, and a pruning saw.
Before disturbing the soil, contact the national “Call Before You Dig” hotline, 811, at least two business days in advance. This free service locates and marks underground utilities like gas, electric, and water lines, preventing dangerous and costly mistakes. Once the area is marked and equipment is ready, the physical removal process can begin.
Physical Removal Techniques
The most thorough method for immediate removal is physical extraction, which targets the entire root ball. For very young saplings, a weed wrench or similar lever-action tool can grip the stem near the base and pull the entire plant, including the roots, directly out of the ground. This technique works best on smaller growth in moist, looser soil conditions.
For trees with thicker trunks and established root systems, begin by cutting the trunk as close to the ground as possible using a pruning saw or loppers. Next, dig a circular trench around the stump to expose the lateral roots, using a shovel and a mattock to break up the soil. The trench should extend far enough to expose the major roots anchoring the tree.
Once the main lateral roots are exposed, sever them completely using loppers, a hatchet, or a reciprocating saw with a pruning blade. After cutting the perimeter roots, remove the stump using the “rocking” method. Apply leverage with a digging bar or pry bar, rocking the stump back and forth to break the taproot and remaining fine roots. This systematic excavation allows the entire root ball to be lifted out, leaving a clean area.
Chemical Treatment Options for Stubborn Trees
When a tree is too large for manual extraction or is an aggressively sprouting species, chemical treatment is necessary to kill the entire root system and prevent regrowth. The most effective approach is the cut-stump treatment, which involves applying a systemic herbicide immediately after felling the tree. This method ensures the chemical travels down to the roots, killing the tissue.
The key to this technique is the precise application of a concentrated herbicide, such as glyphosate or triclopyr, directly to the cambium layer. The cambium is the thin, light-colored ring of tissue just inside the bark, responsible for transporting nutrients and water. Because the stump can seal itself off quickly, the herbicide must be applied to the fresh cut within minutes for maximum translocation to the roots.
For larger, standing trees, the “hack-and-squirt” or “frill-and-squirt” method can be used. This technique involves using a hatchet or chisel to make downward-angled cuts around the trunk’s circumference, exposing the cambium layer. A small amount of concentrated herbicide is then squirted directly into each cut. This allows the chemical to enter the tree’s vascular system and move downward to the roots, killing the tree over time.
Dealing with the Remaining Stump and Roots
Whether the tree was physically pulled or chemically killed, the remaining stump or root mass needs to be addressed to reclaim the space. For larger stumps or when immediate removal is desired, stump grinding is the fastest solution. This process uses a specialized machine with a rotating cutting wheel to mechanically shred the stump several inches below the soil line, turning the wood into chips.
Stump grinding is an efficient process that eliminates the tripping hazard and prevents the stump from resprouting, though it leaves the deep root system intact to decay naturally. If mechanical removal is not feasible, chemical decomposition provides a low-labor, slower alternative. Commercial products often contain potassium nitrate, which acts as a nitrogen source to accelerate natural decay by feeding wood-eating fungi and microbes.
To use chemical decomposition, drill multiple deep holes into the stump’s surface and fill them with the product. The product is then moistened and left to work for several weeks or months. The slowest but most environmentally neutral option is to encourage natural decay by maximizing moisture and nitrogen. Covering the stump with a thick layer of nitrogen-rich organic material, like soil and mulch, creates a warm, damp environment that encourages fungi and insects, which break down the wood mass within one to three years.