Rolly pollies, also known as pill bugs or woodlice, are common backyard inhabitants. These creatures are not insects but terrestrial crustaceans, related to shrimp and lobsters. They are distinguished by their segmented, hard exoskeletons and their ability to roll into a tight ball when disturbed. Pill bugs are beneficial decomposers, breaking down decaying organic matter and returning nutrients to the soil. When populations explode, however, they feed on tender seedlings and soft fruits, making control necessary through natural, non-chemical methods.
Why Rolly Pollies Are Attracted to Your Area
The primary driver for a rolly polly population boom is continuous moisture, which is necessary for their survival. As crustaceans, they breathe using gills and must maintain a damp environment to prevent dehydration. They will not survive long in dry air, which is why they are rarely found in the open during the day.
These organisms are scavengers whose diet consists almost entirely of dead and decaying plant material, such as rotting wood, leaf litter, and old mulch. They are attracted to areas that provide a dark, damp hiding spot and an abundant food source. Feeding on living plants is typically a secondary behavior driven by high population density and the need to seek moisture in tender plant tissue.
Accumulation of debris near foundations or garden beds creates the perfect microclimate for them to thrive. Their presence in large numbers is often an indicator of excessive moisture or drainage issues sustaining the population.
Essential Landscape Modifications for Control
Achieving long-term, natural control relies on reducing the three primary attractants: moisture, food, and shelter. Begin by inspecting irrigation practices, as overwatering is a common cause of high populations. Adjusting your watering schedule to apply water early allows the soil surface and foliage to dry out before evening, when pill bugs are most active.
Improving drainage around garden beds and foundations will directly address the moisture required by their gills. If planting in a damp area, consider using raised beds or incorporating coarse materials into the soil to promote faster water runoff. Directing downspouts away from the house and ensuring the ground slopes away from the foundation prevents damp perimeter conditions that draw them in.
Managing organic material is crucial, as it serves as both food and shelter. Remove piles of fallen leaves, grass clippings, old lumber, and other debris from the ground surface, especially near vulnerable plants or the home’s perimeter. When using mulch, pull it back several inches from plant stems and the house foundation, creating a dry, uninhabitable buffer zone.
Using less dense, faster-drying mulch materials, or applying a thinner layer, can discourage a pill bug habitat. For areas near the home, consider replacing organic mulch entirely with a dry barrier of gravel or crushed stone. These modifications eliminate the damp, decaying environment that allows populations to reach pest levels.
Immediate, Non-Toxic Removal Methods
While waiting for landscape modifications to take effect, immediate population reduction can be achieved through non-toxic trapping methods. Pill bugs are easily drawn to simple food traps placed in affected areas, exploiting their preference for dark, moist spaces and decaying food. A scooped-out half of a potato, a slice of melon rind, or a damp, rolled-up newspaper placed on the ground overnight will attract numerous individuals.
Check these traps each morning and collect the clustered pill bugs for disposal or relocation away from garden beds. A shallow container with its rim flush to the soil, filled with beer or a yeast-and-water solution, also acts as an effective lure and drown trap. Place these traps near the borders of garden beds or areas with the most activity.
Physical barriers can offer localized protection for vulnerable seedlings. Diatomaceous earth (DE), a fine powder made from fossilized aquatic organisms, works by physically damaging the pill bug’s exoskeleton and causing dehydration. Apply a thin layer of food-grade DE in dry areas around plants, but be aware that it loses effectiveness when wet and can harm other beneficial insects. Alternatively, a strip of copper tape or flashing placed around a raised bed creates a low-level electrical charge that repels the organisms upon contact.