How to Get Rid of Moles in the Winter

The appearance of mole activity in a yard during winter often raises questions about how these subterranean mammals, which are not rodents but insectivores, remain active in frozen ground. Moles do not hibernate; their high metabolism requires them to feed year-round, making winter control necessary to prevent extensive damage. Addressing the issue effectively requires understanding their cold-weather behavior and implementing specific removal and management techniques tailored for frozen conditions.

Understanding Winter Mole Behavior

When surface temperatures drop and the topsoil freezes, moles adapt their tunneling to the changing environment. They shift activity away from shallow feeding tunnels, typically only a few inches deep, and retreat to deep, permanent runways. These main tunnels are located six to eighteen inches below the surface, where the soil temperature remains stable and above the frost line. This deeper migration follows their food source, as earthworms and grubs also move down to avoid freezing. Fresh molehills, the volcano-shaped mounds of soil, are evidence of this deeper excavation, confirming that moles continue to forage actively throughout the winter.

Effective Trapping Strategies for Cold Weather

Trapping remains the most reliable method for mole removal, particularly in winter when other techniques are less effective. The key to successful winter trapping is accurately locating an active main runway. Look for fresh molehills or straight, connecting tunnels, then use a probe to confirm the run’s path and depth. Focus on areas that appear freshly pushed up or repaired after being deliberately collapsed.

The trap must be placed in an undisturbed, active run, often requiring a deeper set than in warmer months. The excavation for a scissor-jaw or choker-style trap must be just wide enough to accommodate the device and placed directly in the path of travel. Ensure the trap is “bedded,” meaning it is set firmly so the mole cannot push past or under it without triggering the mechanism.

After setting the trap, the site must be covered completely to block out all light and prevent cold air from entering the tunnel. Moles are highly sensitive to air movement and light, which can cause them to detect the foreign object and tunnel around it. Covering the trap with a bucket, sod, or a board, and then sealing the edges with soil, provides insulation and concealment. Traps should be checked daily, especially in cold weather, to ensure a quick result and to reset any that have been sprung.

Non-Lethal and Less Effective Winter Methods

Many common home remedies or non-lethal controls are poor choices for winter removal because they fail when ground temperatures drop. Sonic or vibration-based repellents rely on transmitting sound waves through the soil to irritate the mole. However, frozen or hard-packed winter soil significantly limits the effective range and diffusion of these vibrations.

Liquid repellents containing castor oil are also less effective. They require the product to be thoroughly watered into the soil to diffuse and coat the mole’s food source, a process that is impractical or impossible when the ground is frozen or saturated.

Fumigants, such as gas cartridges, are unreliable in winter. The deep and extensive nature of the permanent tunnels makes it difficult to effectively seal the entire system. The gas often escapes through porous soil or is lost before it can reach the mole’s deep living quarters.

Post-Removal Yard Management

Once mole activity has ceased, address the damage to prevent further collapse and prepare the yard for spring. Rake out the soil pushed up in molehills and spread it evenly across the lawn to level the surface and fill in small depressions. Gently flatten raised surface tunnels that have not collapsed by walking or rolling over them.

Addressing the mole’s food source is the next long-term step to discourage re-infestation. Moles primarily feed on earthworms, which are beneficial, but they also consume grubs, the larvae of Japanese beetles and other insects. While eliminating earthworms is not feasible, a targeted approach to reduce the grub population in late summer or early fall is a preventative measure. Reducing the food supply makes the yard less attractive, limiting the incentive for new moles to establish a territory as the ground thaws.