The presence of fresh mounds of soil in a lawn or garden signals a subterranean pest is at work, often mistakenly called a mole rat. The true culprit is typically the pocket gopher, a burrowing rodent that creates extensive tunnel systems while feeding on plant roots and tubers. These animals can cause significant damage to landscaping and agricultural areas. Understanding the specific nature of the infestation is the first step toward successful removal and reclaiming your yard.
Identifying the Intruder
Correctly identifying the animal causing the damage is important because removal techniques vary greatly between common yard pests. Pocket gophers create characteristic fan- or crescent-shaped mounds of loose, coarse soil. The tunnel entrance is typically plugged with dirt near the edge of the mound, resulting from the gopher pushing excavated soil out of a lateral tunnel leading to the main runway system.
Moles, by contrast, are insectivores, not rodents. Their digging leaves behind conical or volcano-shaped mounds of finely textured soil that do not have a visible plugged hole. Moles also create raised ridges or surface runways that feel spongy underfoot as they tunnel just beneath the grass line in search of earthworms and grubs. Voles, which are field mice, do not create significant mounds but instead leave clean, small, round entry holes and visible runways of clipped grass along the surface.
Direct Elimination Methods
Trapping is considered one of the most effective methods for controlling pocket gophers, offering clear confirmation of removal without the concerns associated with chemicals. Specialized traps, such as the Macabee or Cinch-style body-gripping traps, are designed to be placed directly into the gopher’s main runway. To find the main tunnel, use a probe a few inches behind the soil plug of a fresh mound until it drops suddenly into the open runway.
Once the main tunnel is located, open it and set two traps facing opposite directions to intercept the gopher traveling from either side of the burrow system. Immediately after setting the traps, block the excavated opening with a board or sod to exclude all light. Gophers are motivated to push soil to plug any breach in their tunnel system, and excluding light forces them toward the trap as they attempt to seal the hole. Traps should be checked frequently, ideally twice a day, and secured with a stake and wire to prevent a caught animal from pulling the trap deeper into the tunnel.
Chemical control involves placing toxic baits or fumigants deep within the active tunnel network. Common rodenticides include grain treated with acute toxicants like strychnine or zinc phosphide, introduced using a hand probe or a mechanical burrow builder. Since these materials are applied underground, they present a lower risk to non-target surface-feeding animals, but spilled bait must be cleaned up immediately to protect birds and pets.
Fumigants, such as gas cartridges or restricted-use aluminum phosphide, are sometimes used, but their effectiveness is limited by the extensive nature of the burrow system. Gophers can rapidly plug their tunnels when they detect toxic gas, preventing the chemical from reaching the entire system. Always carefully read and follow all pesticide label instructions, as some products are classified as “restricted use” and require a certified applicator’s license.
Non-Lethal Deterrents and Exclusion
For homeowners seeking to avoid lethal measures, physical exclusion provides the most reliable long-term defense against gopher damage. Installing a barrier of galvanized hardware cloth or “gopher wire” vertically around garden beds can prevent burrowing access. This barrier should be buried at least 18 to 24 inches deep with a few inches remaining above ground. For new lawns or raised garden boxes, a complete under-lawn barrier laid 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface will block gophers from beneath.
Various repellents are marketed as non-lethal solutions, though their effectiveness is variable and temporary. Products containing castor oil, thought to be offensive to gophers, can be applied to the soil, but the effect diminishes over time and with rain. Sonic or electronic vibrating stakes are designed to annoy the rodents and encourage them to relocate, but scientific evidence of their long-term efficacy is lacking. Some gardeners attempt to use strong-smelling items like fabric softener sheets or coffee grounds stuffed into the tunnels, but gophers may simply plug the area and bypass the material.
Habitat modification can also make a property less appealing to a pocket gopher population. Since these rodents are attracted to deep, fleshy roots, removing primary food sources like specific weeds or certain garden plants can reduce their presence. Flooding the tunnel system, while not always practical, can force the gophers to the surface or drown them, particularly in areas with clay soil that holds water well.
When Professional Help is Necessary
There are situations where the scope or complexity of the infestation warrants calling a licensed pest control professional instead of continuing DIY efforts. If multiple attempts using traps and baits over a period of weeks have failed, the gopher population may be too widespread or the tunnel system too complex for a homeowner to manage. Professionals have access to specialized equipment, like mechanical burrow builders, and restricted-use fumigants such as aluminum phosphide, which are more effective in large-scale infestations.
Seeking expert help is also advisable if gophers are causing damage near sensitive infrastructure like utility lines, septic systems, or the home’s foundation, where improper digging or chemical use could be hazardous. A professional can perform a thorough inspection, assess the severity of the problem, and implement a control strategy that minimizes risk to non-target animals, children, and pets. They also understand local regulations concerning the use of various control agents, which can vary by region.