How to Get Rid of Mites on Succulents

Mites, often belonging to the family of spider mites or broad mites, are a common yet serious pest problem for succulent enthusiasts. These tiny arachnids thrive in the warm, dry conditions that many succulents prefer, making them a frequent target for infestation. Because mites reproduce rapidly, prompt action is necessary to protect the plant and prevent the pests from spreading. Understanding the signs of their presence and implementing a targeted treatment plan are the most effective ways to ensure the plant’s survival. A successful approach combines immediate physical removal with precise chemical or natural treatments, followed by long-term adjustments to the growing environment.

Recognizing the Signs of Mite Infestation

The presence of mites is often indicated by the damage they cause, as the pests themselves are difficult to see without magnification. Mites feed by piercing the plant’s cells and drawing out the contents, which results in visible discoloration on the leaves. This damage first appears as fine, light-colored speckles or tiny dots, known as stippling, which can later turn into a bronze or rusty scarring on the plant’s surface.

Spider mites, a common type, also produce a fine, silky webbing typically found between leaves, at the growing points, or on the undersides of the foliage. This webbing acts as a clear indicator of a significant population. An infestation can lead to stunted or distorted new growth, as the mites concentrate their feeding on the tender, developing tissues. Inspecting the plant with a magnifying glass can confirm the presence of these pests, which may appear as tiny, moving red, brown, or pale dots.

Immediate Isolation and Preparation

Upon noticing any signs of mite activity, the first step is to isolate the affected succulent from all other plants. This quarantine prevents the mites from spreading to neighboring specimens. The isolated plant should be placed in an area that still meets its light requirements but is physically separate from the rest of the collection.

Before applying specialized treatments, physically remove as many pests as possible. Use a strong, steady stream of water to thoroughly wash the entire plant, focusing particularly on the undersides of leaves and the tight junctions where mites congregate. This high-pressure rinse dislodges mites and their protective webbing, which improves the efficacy of subsequent treatments. Any leaves or pads that are heavily scarred or covered in mites should be carefully pruned away and immediately discarded.

Targeted Eradication Methods

Once the succulent is isolated and physically cleaned, a targeted treatment must be applied to eliminate the remaining mites and their eggs. Treatment options are generally grouped into contact sprays, which kill upon application, and systemic options, which are absorbed by the plant.

Horticultural Oils and Soaps

Horticultural sprays are a highly effective contact method, with neem oil being a popular choice for its ability to smother mites and disrupt their life cycle. A solution of horticultural neem oil, mixed with water and a small amount of mild liquid soap as an emulsifier, must be applied to completely coat all plant surfaces. The soap helps the oil adhere to the waxy coating of the mites and the plant itself, ensuring thorough coverage.

Because neem oil can cause phytotoxicity when exposed to strong light, the application should always be performed in the late evening or on a heavily overcast day, allowing it to dry before any sun exposure. This treatment must be repeated every five to seven days for several weeks to break the mite’s reproductive cycle, as the initial application may not kill all the eggs.

Alcohol Spot Treatment

Another common contact treatment involves using a diluted solution of rubbing alcohol, specifically 70% isopropyl alcohol, mixed with water. This method is often used as a spot treatment on small, localized infestations or applied to the entire plant via a spray bottle. The alcohol rapidly dehydrates and kills mites upon contact, but it is necessary to test the solution on a small, inconspicuous leaf first to ensure the succulent does not react negatively. After application, the plant should be kept out of direct sunlight until the alcohol has fully evaporated.

Systemic Miticides

For severe, recurring infestations, or for mites that are difficult to reach in plant crevices, systemic treatments may be considered. Systemic miticides are absorbed through the roots and circulate within the plant tissues, poisoning mites that feed on the sap. While highly effective, these options should be used with caution and only as directed, as succulents can be sensitive to strong chemical applications. Regardless of the chosen method, consistency is paramount, requiring multiple applications to ensure all generations of the rapidly reproducing mites are eradicated.

Adjusting Care for Long-Term Prevention

Preventing a mite infestation involves adjusting the succulent’s environment, as mites thrive in hot, dry, and stagnant conditions. Increasing the humidity around the plants slightly, such as through the use of a humidity tray or grouping plants together, can create a less favorable habitat for the pests.

Regularly cleaning the leaves helps prevent mites, which are attracted to dusty surfaces. Wiping down the foliage removes potential egg-laying sites. Ensuring adequate air circulation by using a small fan or placing plants near an open window can also disrupt mite establishment and spread.

Establishing a routine inspection schedule is the most important preventive measure. A thorough visual check of all plants allows for the early detection and removal of small pest populations. New succulents should always be quarantined for at least two weeks before being introduced to a collection.