Honey locust trees (\(Gleditsia triacanthos\)) are recognized for their rapid growth and graceful, fern-like foliage, but their aggressive nature and expansive root systems often create issues for homeowners. The species can feature long, sharp thorns that pose a hazard, though thornless varieties are common in landscaping. Once established, the honey locust develops a vigorous root structure prone to sending up new growth, making the tree difficult to eliminate completely. Simply cutting the tree down will trigger regenerative growth, requiring a specific, multi-step strategy for permanent removal.
Felling the Main Trunk
The initial step in removal is safely bringing down the main tree trunk. Before any cuts are made, clear the area beneath the tree to establish a safe drop zone and don personal protective equipment, including a helmet, eye protection, ear protection, and cut-resistant chaps. The danger of long, sharp thorns on some varieties necessitates thick gloves and heavy clothing to prevent injury during handling.
The felling process begins by creating a directional notch on the side of the trunk facing the intended drop zone, typically removing a wedge of wood one-fifth to one-third of the trunk’s diameter. Following this, the back cut is made on the opposite side of the trunk, positioned slightly above the apex of the notch. Maintaining a hinge of uncut wood between the notch and the back cut guides the tree’s fall and ensures it drops in the desired direction.
As the back cut deepens, felling wedges driven into the cut can help prevent the chainsaw from binding and assist in pushing the tree over safely. For larger or more complex trees, or those near structures, hiring a certified arborist is a safer choice. This initial stage removes the canopy and trunk, leaving the stump and root system for the next steps.
Preventing Stump Regrowth
Once the main trunk is felled, the remaining stump and root collar hold the energy reserves necessary for sprouting. Immediate application of a systemic herbicide to the fresh, living tissue is the most effective way to prevent the stump from regenerating. The tree’s cambium layer, the moist ring just beneath the bark, is the pathway for transporting the herbicide into the root system.
For a cut-stump treatment, an herbicide containing active ingredients like triclopyr or picloram is recommended, as they move effectively throughout the plant’s vascular system. The application must be made within minutes of cutting the tree down, before the plant forms a protective seal over the wound. Paint or spray the herbicide only onto the exposed cambium ring and the outer light-colored sapwood, avoiding the dead center heartwood.
Alternatively, the “drill-and-pour” method involves drilling holes at a downward angle into the stump just inside the bark line. These holes should be spaced a few inches apart around the circumference and filled with concentrated herbicide. This method ensures the chemical is delivered directly into the active wood tissues where it can circulate to the roots. Wait a few weeks after herbicide application before proceeding to mechanical removal, giving the chemical time to translocate and kill the root system completely.
Stump grinding is a mechanical option that can remove the stump to a depth of six to twelve inches below the soil surface. However, grinding without a preceding herbicide treatment is often counterproductive, as the residual root fragments are stimulated to send up sprouts after the main energy sink has been removed. If grinding is performed, the surrounding soil must be monitored for signs of new growth, which still requires targeted chemical treatment.
Eradicating Root Suckers and Sprouts
The honey locust’s extensive root system can be triggered to produce new shoots, or suckers, often far from the original trunk location. This sprouting is a survival mechanism, and the stress of felling the main tree often exacerbates the problem. Simply mowing or cutting these suckers at ground level is ineffective and can make the issue worse, as it stimulates the root system to generate more sprouts.
The most effective method for controlling distant sprouts is a targeted application of herbicide directly to the new growth. Allow the suckers to grow a few feet tall before treatment, ensuring they have enough leaf surface area to absorb the chemical and move it down into the root system. Painting the leaves or the freshly cut stem of each individual sprout with a concentrated systemic herbicide, such as triclopyr, ensures the chemical is delivered to the specific root section that produced the sprout.
A basal bark treatment using an oil-soluble triclopyr formulation can also be used on slightly older, woody sprouts by spraying the lower twelve to fifteen inches of the stem, including the root collar. This method allows the herbicide to penetrate the bark and enter the vascular system. Eliminating honey locust suckers is a long-term maintenance task, potentially requiring repeated treatments over one to three years until the root system’s energy reserves are fully depleted.