The groundhog is a large rodent from the squirrel family that is often called a woodchuck. While they are a natural part of the ecosystem, their presence in residential areas quickly becomes destructive due to continuous feeding and extensive burrowing. Groundhogs spend the warmer months consuming a large volume of vegetation, sometimes up to a pound of food per day, which can decimate gardens and flower beds. Their instinct to dig deep, complex tunnel systems poses a significant threat to the structural integrity of lawns, foundations, and driveways.
Confirming the Intruder
Before initiating any removal or deterrence strategy, confirming the identity of the burrowing animal is necessary. Groundhog burrows are distinct from those created by smaller pests like moles or skunks. A groundhog’s main entrance is typically large, measuring 10 to 12 inches in diameter, and is characterized by a conspicuous, fan-shaped mound of excavated soil, often called a “porch,” directly outside the opening.
The entire burrow system can extend 20 to 50 feet in length and reach depths of up to five feet, containing multiple chambers. Groundhogs also maintain one or more secondary “plunge holes” or escape routes that are often smaller and lack the surrounding dirt mound, making them difficult to spot. Plant damage is usually identifiable as clean-cut bites on low-lying, succulent vegetation such as clover, beans, peas, and lettuce, particularly near the den entrance.
This differs significantly from mole activity, which is marked by conical mounds and shallow, raised soil ridges. Skunks, which sometimes use abandoned groundhog dens, create small, cone-shaped holes when digging for grubs. Knowing the specific characteristics of the groundhog’s work ensures that remediation efforts target the correct animal.
Non-Physical Deterrence Strategies
Initial attempts to manage a groundhog problem should focus on non-physical deterrents that encourage the animal to leave the area voluntarily by causing sensory discomfort. Groundhogs rely heavily on their sense of smell, making scent-based repellents a logical first approach, though they require consistent reapplication. Commercial repellents frequently utilize ingredients like putrescent eggs, castor oil, garlic, or capsaicin, as these strong odors and tastes irritate the groundhog’s sensitive receptors.
These substances can be sprayed directly onto vulnerable plants or applied to the soil around the burrow entrance and garden perimeter. Sprinkling granular forms of dried blood, Epsom salts, or cayenne pepper near the den opening can also provide a temporary barrier. The effectiveness of these deterrents is reduced significantly by heavy rain or irrigation.
Another strategy involves employing sudden stimuli to disrupt the animal’s sense of security. Motion-activated water sprinklers, which spray a sudden jet of water when triggered, can startle groundhogs and condition them to avoid the protected area. Ultrasonic devices that emit vibrations or sound waves into the soil are also marketed as a deterrent. These sensory methods are generally most effective when used as a preventative measure or immediately after a groundhog establishes residence.
Physical Exclusion: Building Barriers
Physical exclusion is frequently the most reliable, long-term solution for preventing groundhog damage, as it directly blocks their access to desirable areas. Since groundhogs are proficient diggers and climbers, a barrier must address both vertical and subterranean entry attempts. Effective perimeter fencing should be constructed using heavy gauge wire mesh, such as galvanized hardware cloth, with openings no larger than one or two inches.
For a garden barrier, the fence should extend at least 3 to 4 feet above the ground to deter climbing. To prevent scaling, bend the top section outward at a 45-degree angle, forming an overhang. The most important feature of a groundhog-proof fence, however, lies beneath the soil surface.
To counter their burrowing instinct, the fence material must be installed using an “L-foot” or apron design that extends underground. This requires digging a trench 10 to 12 inches deep along the fence line. The wire mesh is then buried and bent outward at a 90-degree angle, extending 12 inches horizontally away from the protected area. When a groundhog attempts to dig under the fence, the horizontal wire apron immediately impedes its downward motion, leading the animal to abandon the effort.
This apron method is also used to seal access under structures like decks, sheds, and porches, which groundhogs favor for shelter. Wire mesh should be securely fastened to the base of the structure and then extended outward underground with the L-foot barrier. Sealing all potential entry points with this subterranean apron design creates a permanent deterrent against future burrowing.
Active Removal Methods
When deterrence and exclusion barriers fail, active removal methods may become necessary. Live trapping is a common non-lethal approach that utilizes a large, sturdy cage trap baited with groundhog-preferred foods like apple slices, sweet corn, or fresh clover. The trap should be placed directly in the groundhog’s path, often a few feet from the main burrow entrance, ensuring it is level and stable.
If the burrow has multiple entrances, temporarily seal all but one opening with soil or rocks to encourage the animal to exit through the trap-adjacent entrance. Any captured animal must be checked daily to minimize stress and ensure humane handling. Upon capture, the homeowner must immediately consult local and state wildlife regulations regarding disposal.
Laws concerning wildlife control vary significantly, and many jurisdictions prohibit the relocation of trapped wild animals due to disease transmission risks. Where relocation is unlawful, the homeowner may be legally obligated to humanely euthanize the animal or contract a licensed professional for removal. Lethal control methods, such as carbon monoxide gas cartridges for fumigation, are typically restricted due to safety concerns and are best left to licensed wildlife removal services. For large, complex burrow systems or when legal restrictions prevent homeowner intervention, contact Animal Control or a certified nuisance wildlife operator.