Permanently removing turfgrass is a significant undertaking because many common varieties possess tenacious underground structures that aid survival. Grasses like Bermuda and Quack grass utilize rhizomes (horizontal underground stems) and stolons (above-ground runners) to rapidly colonize an area. Achieving true permanence requires a commitment to methods that completely eradicate these structures and prevent future re-establishment.
Site Preparation and Safety Assessment
Before engaging in any removal technique, the workspace must be clearly defined and assessed for safety hazards. The boundary of the area to be cleared should be marked using paint or landscape flags to prevent accidental damage to surrounding desirable plants. Contact the national call-before-you-dig number, 811, to ensure the location of any buried utility lines is determined and marked.
The specific type of grass present should be identified, as aggressive varieties require more intensive removal strategies. Assessing the soil is also prudent, especially if the area is planned for a new garden bed, because some removal methods can temporarily alter soil composition. Knowing the current soil conditions allows for appropriate amendments later to support new vegetation.
Non-Chemical Smothering Methods
A patient approach involves depriving the grass of the resources it needs to photosynthesize and grow. Solarization utilizes clear plastic sheeting to trap solar radiation and dramatically raise the soil temperature. This process essentially “bakes” the grass and the dormant weed and grass seeds within the topsoil layer.
Effective solarization requires soil temperatures to consistently exceed 140°F (60°C) for several weeks to kill the root systems. Depending on the climate and sun exposure, this method requires four to eight weeks during the hottest part of the year.
Another non-chemical technique is sheet mulching, sometimes called lasagna gardening, which physically smothers the grass. Sheet mulching involves laying down layers of material, usually starting with thick cardboard, followed by wet newspaper and then several inches of organic matter like compost or wood chips. The dense layers completely block sunlight, starving the grass and preventing photosynthesis. This process is slower than solarization, often requiring two to six months for the grass to fully decompose beneath the layers.
Immediate Physical and Chemical Removal
For those requiring immediate results, the removal process involves either physical labor or the controlled application of chemical agents.
Physical Removal
Physical removal is accomplished using a sharp spade or a rented sod cutter to slice the turf from the soil base. Ensure the top two to four inches of soil are removed to successfully extract the majority of the rhizomes and stolons that harbor regrowth potential. Removing the sod creates a substantial volume of heavy, bulky organic waste that must be managed. The remaining soil will still contain dormant seeds, requiring continued vigilance against new sprouts in the following seasons.
Chemical Removal
Chemical removal offers a rapid solution by using non-selective herbicides, such as those containing glyphosate. These chemicals are absorbed by the leaves and translocated throughout the entire plant structure. When using herbicides, follow all safety guidelines, including wearing personal protective equipment and ensuring wind conditions are calm to prevent drift onto nearby desirable plants. Aggressive grasses often require a follow-up application about two weeks after the first treatment to eliminate any regrowth arising from structures that survived the initial application.
Ensuring Permanent Exclusion
Achieving true permanence depends on effective post-removal management to prevent any re-establishment of the grass. Even after the above-ground growth is gone, the soil retains a seed bank containing grass and weed seeds that can remain viable for many years. Ongoing monitoring and immediate removal of any new seedlings that emerge is necessary to prevent the cycle from starting over.
If the cleared area borders an existing lawn, installing a physical barrier is a practical step to prevent the neighboring grass from creeping back. Root barriers or deep landscape edging should be sunk six to twelve inches into the ground to block horizontal runners and rhizomes.
Immediately cover the exposed soil after removal is complete. Bare soil provides an ideal environment for any latent seeds to germinate and thrive. Covering the area with a thick layer of mulch, installing hardscaping materials, or planting a dense ground cover will effectively shade the soil and outcompete any remaining grass seeds.