Gophers are common subterranean rodents that quickly turn a manicured lawn or productive garden into a landscape of unsightly soil mounds and damaged plant roots. Addressing a gopher problem effectively requires a targeted, non-lethal approach that encourages the animal to relocate without harsh chemicals or traps. These home remedies focus on leveraging the gopher’s sensitivity to strong scents and its vulnerability to physical barriers. Taking action early, once the first signs of activity appear, increases the chances of successfully reclaiming your yard.
Confirming Gopher Presence and Activity
Before applying any remedy, confirm that gophers are the source of the damage rather than moles or voles. The most distinct indicator of a gopher is its characteristic fan-shaped or horseshoe-shaped soil mound. Gophers push dirt to the surface at an angle, creating an asymmetrical mound with a filled-in hole, or soil plug, usually located off-center.
This plugged entrance differentiates the gopher mound from a molehill, which is volcano-shaped and symmetrical with no visible opening. Gophers excavate a system of main tunnels four to eighteen inches below the surface, which they keep plugged to deter predators and maintain humidity. To check if a tunnel is active, carefully open the plugged entrance; a gopher living in the system will re-plug the opening within a day or two. Identifying these fresh, fan-shaped mounds is the first step toward strategically placing deterrents in the most active areas.
Natural and Scent-Based Repellents
Many home remedies capitalize on the gopher’s acute sense of smell, using strong odors to make the environment unappealing. Castor oil is a popular repellent because its smell and taste can irritate the gopher’s digestive system, prompting it to move away from the treated soil. To apply this, a mixture of castor oil, water, and a small amount of dish soap can be sprayed directly onto the lawn and garden areas where activity is present.
A more targeted application involves soaking cotton balls in pure castor oil or peppermint oil, then carefully placing the saturated material directly into an active tunnel. You must first locate the main runway, often found about a foot or two from the plugged mound, and then insert the strongly scented items before loosely sealing the tunnel opening with soil. Garlic and chili powder are also effective due to their potent, irritating odors.
You can also place garlic cloves or spent coffee grounds into the active burrows, ensuring the strong scent permeates the underground space. Because these scent-based deterrents can dissipate quickly, especially after rain or irrigation, reapplication is necessary every few days to maintain the repellent effect. Applying these materials in phases, starting at the edge of the affected area and working inward, encourages the gopher to vacate the yard completely.
Physical Deterrents and Exclusion Methods
Physical methods rely on making the gopher’s environment uncomfortable or completely inaccessible. One strategy uses the gopher’s sensitivity to vibrations and noise, which can be introduced via commercial ultrasonic devices or simple DIY stakes. While the effectiveness of these vibration-based devices can vary widely, a simple metal stake with a spinning component, like a pinwheel or wind chime, inserted into the ground may create enough subterranean disturbance to encourage relocation.
A far more reliable and permanent physical solution is the installation of underground barriers to protect specific planting areas. Raised garden beds and flower boxes can be protected by lining the entire bottom and sides with galvanized hardware cloth. The recommended material is a ½-inch mesh with a 19- or 20-gauge wire, which is small enough to block the gopher while allowing plant roots to grow through.
For existing gardens, the soil must be temporarily removed to install the hardware cloth barrier, ensuring the mesh extends up the sides of the bed and is securely fastened to the wooden frame. For protecting an entire yard, a perimeter fence using the same ½-inch mesh should be buried at least 36 inches deep, with the material bent outward at the bottom to discourage digging underneath. This physical exclusion is the most labor-intensive method but provides the longest-lasting protection.