Pocket gophers are rodents known for their extensive underground activity, presenting a significant challenge to homeowners and gardeners. These solitary pests create complex tunnel systems, pushing excavated soil to the surface to form characteristic fan or crescent-shaped dirt mounds. Gophers feed primarily on plant roots, bulbs, and tubers, capable of destroying garden beds and compromising the stability of turf and irrigation lines. Addressing an infestation quickly is necessary because their tunneling networks expand rapidly, making the problem exponentially more difficult to manage over time.
Verifying the Pest and Locating Active Tunnels
The first step is confirming that a pocket gopher is the cause of the damage, as their signs are often confused with those of moles. A gopher mound is typically crescent or fan-shaped, featuring a plugged dirt hole off to one side where the gopher pushed the soil out. In contrast, a mole hill is a volcano-like, symmetrical circle of soil raised from below, and moles also leave visible, raised surface ridges from their shallow feeding runs.
Gophers operate in deeper main tunnels, usually located six to twelve inches beneath the surface, which requires probing to locate accurately. To find the main runway, use a thin metal probe or rod about a foot or two away from the plugged mound side, pushing it into the soil every few inches. You will feel a sudden drop when the probe breaks into the hollow main tunnel. This precise location is where all control methods must be applied for maximum effectiveness, as targeting only the visible mound is likely to fail.
Mechanical Removal: Selecting and Setting Traps
Trapping is the most consistently reliable method for eliminating gophers, provided the traps are placed correctly within the main runway. Several effective trap designs are available, including the classic two-pronged pincher traps like the Macabee, the powerful Cinch traps, and various enclosed box traps. The Macabee-style trap is generally easier to set and highly effective. Box traps, which enclose the mechanism, are a good option for yards with pets or children, as they offer a higher degree of safety.
Once the main tunnel is exposed, set two traps facing in opposite directions to intercept the gopher regardless of its approach. Wear gloves when handling traps to avoid transferring human scent, which can alert the gopher. Stabilize the traps by bedding them slightly into the tunnel floor. After placement, cover the excavation site to block light and air, which the gopher will instinctively rush to plug, triggering the trap. Check the traps frequently, ideally within a few hours, as gophers are highly motivated to repair any breach.
Chemical Control: Baits and Fumigation
Chemical methods involve introducing toxic substances into the gopher’s active tunnel system, typically in the form of grain-based baits or fumigants. Toxic baits contain active ingredients such as zinc phosphide or anticoagulants, both of which pose significant risks to non-target animals. Zinc phosphide carries a high primary risk to pets or wildlife that might find the bait pellets. Anticoagulants can cause secondary poisoning in predators or scavengers if they consume a poisoned gopher carcass.
Because of these safety concerns, toxic baits must be applied only deep within the main tunnel using a specialized probe or funnel, never scattered on the surface. Fumigation, which involves gas cartridges or tablets, is often less effective than baiting or trapping because gophers can quickly sense the gas and seal off the tunnel segment. However, aluminum phosphide can be a highly effective control option when the soil is moist enough to trap the toxic phosphine gas within the burrow system. Newer carbon monoxide-producing devices inject a high concentration of gas into the tunnel system, providing a more consistent result than traditional smoke cartridges.
Exclusion Barriers and Habitat Modification
For long-term prevention, physical exclusion barriers offer a permanent, non-chemical solution best implemented during new construction or garden bed installation. The most effective barrier material is a woven or welded hardware cloth made from galvanized or stainless steel, with a mesh opening of 3/4-inch or less. This wire gauge is small enough to exclude gophers while still allowing water and plant roots to pass through. For perimeter protection, the mesh should be installed vertically, buried at least six to twelve inches deep, with the bottom six inches bent outward into an L-shape to deter digging underneath.
Modifying the habitat also makes the area less attractive to gophers, encouraging them to seek food elsewhere. Since gophers prefer moist, well-irrigated soil, reducing the frequency of lawn watering can make the ground harder to dig and the roots less palatable. Removing preferred food sources, such as clover, weeds, or certain bulbs, also contributes to a less hospitable environment. Less reliable methods, such as sonic devices and liquid repellents, may temporarily deter gophers but are often overcome as the animals become accustomed to the disturbance.